Station 7 of 13 · Memory · courses

Guided courses

Walk a handful of records in order, then test yourself on what they hold: every question’s answer comes from a record, and every answer links back to it.

From the records · a self-test, not an exam · nothing sent Five short walks across the record pages, each ending in a few questions whose answers are read from those records. Every answer is explained, with a link to the record it comes from.

Checking your answers needs JavaScript, which is off or has not loaded. Every question works without it: under each, “The answer, from the record” opens the answer and its record.

The courses

  1. Learn the rose 7 records · four questions
  2. Citrus apart 8 records · five questions
  3. Woods side by side 7 records · four questions
  4. Lavender to the fougère 8 records · four questions
  5. What regulation took from the muguet 8 records · four questions

01 Learn the rose

From the valley where the damask rose is grown to the four molecules of the rose teaching accord: one flower, two ways out of the petal, and the trace molecule the rules single out.

The walk: seven records, in order

  1. Kazanlak, Rose Valley origin · station 1 · Where the damask rose is grown for its oil.country: Bulgaria · region: the Valley of Roses (Rozovata Dolina), Central Bulgaria,…
  2. Rosa damascena Mill. plant · station 1 · The plant, and the part that is used.common name: damask rose · part used: the flowers (rose blossom), picked with the sepals
  3. Rose otto material · station 2 · The oil distilled from the flowers.kind: natural · plant: Rosa damascena Mill. · extraction: steam distillation
  4. Rose absolute material · station 2 · The same flowers by another route out of the petal.kind: natural · plant: Rosa damascena Mill. · extraction: solvent extraction
  5. Citronellol molecule · station 4 · One of the two largest constituents the rose records measure.molecular formula: C10H20O · CAS: 106-22-9
  6. β-damascenone molecule · station 4 · A trace molecule the rose records name, with a rule of its own.molecular formula: C13H18O · CAS: 23696-85-7
  7. A rose, from four molecules teaching accord · station 8 · Four molecules that build a rose, for learning.family: floral (rose) · components: 4 · purpose: teaching, not for skin

The self-test: four questions, every answer from these records

1 How is rose absolute taken from the flower, on its record?

The answer, from the record

Solvent extraction. The rose absolute record gives its extraction as solvent extraction (perfumery convention). The rose absolute record

2 Which of these molecules does the rose otto record list as a constituent?

The answer, from the record

Citronellol. The rose otto record lists citronellol among its constituents (measured; source S6, S4, GC-2). Not on its record: vanillin, limonene, khusimol. The rose otto record · The citronellol record

3 Which IFRA Standard does the β-damascenone record cite?

The answer, from the record

Rose ketones (Amendment 49). The β-damascenone record cites IFRA Standard: Rose ketones, Amendment 49: restriction, for dermal sensitization. IFRA Standards are the industry’s own rules, not law in the US. The β-damascenone record · The Standard’s record

4 What role does the rose teaching accord’s record give β-damascenone?

The answer, from the record

Trace. The record of “A rose, from four molecules” gives β-damascenone the role “trace” (perfumery convention): a trace: its odour threshold on record is very low (the molecule record), so a trace is enough by convention. The record of “A rose, from four molecules”

02 Citrus apart

Bergamot, pressed from the peel, and what its record lists inside it: limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten. Which words belong to the oil and which to one constituent, and which rules name which.

The walk: eight records, in order

  1. Citrus bergamia Risso plant · station 1 · The fruit; the oil comes from its peel.common name: bergamot · part used: the fruit: the essential oil is pressed from its peel
  2. Calabria origin · station 1 · Where the record places it.country: Italy · region: the coastal comuni of the province of Reggio Calabria…
  3. Bergamot essential oil material · station 2 · The pressed oil.kind: natural · plant: Citrus bergamia Risso · extraction: cold expression
  4. Limonene molecule · station 4 · A constituent on bergamot’s record.molecular formula: C10H16 · CAS: 138-86-3 · volatility class: top (modeled)
  5. Linalyl acetate molecule · station 4 · Another constituent on its record.molecular formula: C12H20O2 · CAS: 115-95-7
  6. Bergapten molecule · station 4 · A furocoumarin on its record, and the rules that single it out.molecular formula: C12H8O4 · CAS: 484-20-8
  7. Citral molecule · station 4 · A molecule with an IFRA Standard of its own.molecular formula: C10H16O · CAS: 5392-40-5
  8. A cologne teaching accord · station 8 · A cologne structure, for learning.family: citrus (the Osmothèque’s "Hespéridé") · components: 5 · purpose: teaching, not for skin

The self-test: five questions, every answer from these records

1 How is bergamot oil taken from the fruit, on its record?

The answer, from the record

Cold expression. The bergamot essential oil record gives its extraction as cold expression (documented; source PDO-1). The bergamot essential oil record

2 Which word does the limonene record file for it?

The answer, from the record

Bright. The limonene record files bright, fresh (“bright”: house interpretation). Not on its record: citrus, lemony, jammy. The limonene record · The bright record

3 And which word does the bergamot oil record file that the limonene record does not?

The answer, from the record

Citrus. The bergamot essential oil record files fresh, citrus (“citrus”: documented, source PDO-1). Not on its record: bright, piney, honey. The bergamot essential oil record · The citrus record

4 Which IFRA Standard does the bergapten record cite?

The answer, from the record

Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils (Amendment 49). The bergapten record cites IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils, Amendment 49: restriction, for phototoxicity. IFRA Standards are the industry’s own rules, not law in the US. The bergapten record · The Standard’s record

5 Which of these is a component of the cologne teaching accord, on its record?

The answer, from the record

Limonene. The record of “A cologne” lists limonene among its components, in the role “top” (documented; source KLE-1). Not on its record: citral, bergapten, vanillin. The record of “A cologne” · The limonene record

03 Woods side by side

Sandalwood from a tree’s heartwood, vetiver from a grass’s roots, Iso E Super from the laboratory: three woods on one shelf, and the words their records give each.

The walk: seven records, in order

  1. Santalum album L. plant · station 1 · Sandalwood: the tree.common name: Indian sandalwood (also East Indian, or tropical,… · part used: the heartwood, and the roots, of mature trees
  2. Sandalwood oil material · station 2 · Its oil, from the heartwood and the roots.kind: natural · plant: Santalum album L. · extraction: steam distillation
  3. Chrysopogon zizanioides (L.) Roberty plant · station 1 · Vetiver: a grass.common name: vetiver · part used: the roots, dried
  4. Vetiver oil material · station 2 · Its oil, from the dried roots.kind: natural · plant: Chrysopogon zizanioides (L.) Roberty · extraction: hydrodistillation
  5. Iso E Super molecule · station 4 · A wood made in the laboratory.molecular formula: C16H26O · CAS: 54464-57-2
  6. Iso E Super, 1972 event · station 12 · When it arrived.date: 1972 · kind: synthesis
  7. A woody-ambery teaching accord · station 8 · The three side by side, for learning.family: wood · components: 3 · purpose: teaching, not for skin

The self-test: four questions, every answer from these records

1 Which plant family does the vetiver record give?

The answer, from the record

Poaceae. The vetiver record gives the family Poaceae (documented; source GBIF-1). The vetiver record

2 How is vetiver oil taken from the roots, on its record?

The answer, from the record

Hydrodistillation. The vetiver oil record gives its extraction as hydrodistillation (documented; source GC-11). The vetiver oil record

3 Which word does the vetiver oil record file? (The other three are sandalwood oil’s.)

The answer, from the record

Smoky. The vetiver oil record files smoky, rooty (“smoky”: house interpretation). Not on its record: creamy, milky, sweet. The vetiver oil record · The smoky record

4 Which place does the sandalwood record give as its origin?

The answer, from the record

Mysore, Karnataka, India. The Indian sandalwood record gives Mysore, Karnataka, India as its origin (documented; source GC-9). The Indian sandalwood record · The Mysore, Karnataka, India record

04 Lavender to the fougère

Lavender and lavandin, linalool in the oil, coumarin made in a laboratory in 1868, and the fougère skeleton they lead to.

The walk: eight records, in order

  1. Lavandula angustifolia Mill. plant · station 1 · The plant.common name: fine lavender (lavande fine) · part used: the flowering stems, cut above the leaves
  2. Lavender essential oil material · station 2 · Its oil.kind: natural · plant: Lavandula angustifolia Mill. · extraction: steam distillation
  3. Lavandin essential oil material · station 2 · The hybrid’s oil, beside it.kind: natural · plant: Lavandula × intermedia Emeric ex Loisel. · extraction: steam distillation
  4. Linalool molecule · station 4 · A constituent on the lavender record.molecular formula: C10H18O · CAS: 78-70-6 · volatility class: top (modeled)
  5. Coumarin molecule · station 4 · A molecule made in the laboratory in 1868.molecular formula: C9H6O2 · CAS: 91-64-5
  6. Perkin reports a synthesis of coumarin, 1868 event · station 12 · That synthesis, as an event.date: 1868 · kind: synthesis
  7. The fougère skeleton teaching accord · station 8 · The fougère structure, for learning.family: fougère (the Osmothèque’s "Fougère") · components: 5 · purpose: teaching, not for skin
  8. Jicky historical fragrance · station 12 · A historical fougère, by year and house.house: Guerlain · year: 1889 · family as classified: Fougère / Fougère

The self-test: four questions, every answer from these records

1 Which word does the lavandin oil record file?

The answer, from the record

Camphoraceous. The lavandin essential oil record files camphoraceous (“camphoraceous”: documented, source HV-4). Not on its record: floral, honey, smoky. The lavandin essential oil record · The camphoraceous record

2 How is lavender oil taken from the plant, on its record?

The answer, from the record

Steam distillation. The lavender essential oil record gives its extraction as steam distillation (documented; source HV-4). The lavender essential oil record

3 Which IFRA Standard does the coumarin record cite?

The answer, from the record

Coumarin (Amendment 49). The coumarin record cites IFRA Standard: Coumarin, Amendment 49: restriction, for dermal sensitization and systemic toxicity. IFRA Standards are the industry’s own rules, not law in the US. The coumarin record · The Standard’s record

4 In which year does the record date Jicky?

The answer, from the record

1889. The Jicky record dates it 1889 (documented; source OSMO-1), by Guerlain. The Jicky record

05 What regulation took from the muguet

A lily-of-the-valley accord built from aroma chemicals, and what EU law and the IFRA Standards on record now say about each of them. The jurisdiction is named every time: EU law is law in the EU; the IFRA Standards are the industry’s own rules, not law in the US.

The walk: eight records, in order

  1. A muguet teaching accord · station 8 · A muguet, and what regulation took from it.family: floral (the Osmothèque’s "Solinote Muguet") · components: 5 · purpose: teaching, not for skin
  2. Hydroxycitronellal molecule · station 4 · Its largest component on record.molecular formula: C10H20O2 · CAS: 107-75-5
  3. Butylphenyl methylpropional molecule · station 4 · A component EU law has since taken out of cosmetics.molecular formula: C14H20O · CAS: 80-54-6
  4. Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde molecule · station 4 · Another, taken out earlier.molecular formula: C13H22O2 · CAS: 31906-04-4
  5. Regulation (EU) 2021/1902 (substances classified CMR, butylphenyl methylpropional among them) regulation · station 2 · The EU regulation that names p-BMHCA.body: EU · instrument: Commission Regulation
  6. Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited) regulation · station 2 · The EU regulation that names HICC.body: EU · instrument: Commission Regulation
  7. IFRA Standard: Hydroxycitronellal regulation · station 2 · An IFRA Standard, with its amendment.body: IFRA · instrument: IFRA Standard (Amendment 51)
  8. Diorissimo historical fragrance · station 12 · A historical muguet, by year and house.house: Dior · year: 1956 · family as classified: Floral / Solinote Muguet

The self-test: four questions, every answer from these records

1 What does EU law do with p-BMHCA in cosmetic products, on its record?

The answer, from the record

Prohibited in cosmetic products (EU law). The butylphenyl methylpropional record: prohibited in cosmetics since 2022 (EU law). EU law is law in the EU; the US status is not on record. The butylphenyl methylpropional record · The regulation’s record

2 And with hydroxycitronellal?

The answer, from the record

To be named in the list of ingredients above a stated concentration (EU law). The hydroxycitronellal record: to be named in the ingredient list above a stated concentration (EU law). EU law is law in the EU; the US status is not on record. The hydroxycitronellal record · The regulation’s record

3 Which IFRA Standard does the HICC record cite?

The answer, from the record

HMPCC (Amendment 49). The hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde record cites IFRA Standard: 3 and 4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexene-1-carboxaldehyde (HMPCC), Amendment 49: restriction, for dermal sensitization and systemic toxicity. IFRA Standards are the industry’s own rules, not law in the US. The hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde record · The Standard’s record

4 In which year does the record date Diorissimo?

The answer, from the record

1956. The Diorissimo record dates it 1956 (documented; source OSMO-1), by Dior. The Diorissimo record

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version 1 · updated 2026-10-08