The recordsAll teaching accords
Station 8 of 13 · Accord · the record
A cologne
A cologne: bergamot and its molecules over a lavender heart.
Teaching accord A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.
Everything in it is volatile, so it is bright and brief. The bergamot also shows why a natural oil can be regulated: its furocoumarins are phototoxic.
The record
Each field carries its evidence: open a chip for the source, the quoted words and the confidence. A field with nothing behind it says so and stays empty.
- Name
- A cologne
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the house’s name for this teaching accord
confidence C
- Purpose
- teaching
house rule
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the site’s rule: every accord on record is a teaching accord; the house’s own formulas never enter the repository (brief §12.7)
confidence B
- Structure
- A cologne: bergamot and its citrus molecules on top, a lavender heart, and nothing heavy under them.
perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention; the Osmothèque classes Eau de Cologne Impériale (1853) and Eau Sauvage (1966) as Hespéridé (citrus)
confidence B
- Family
- citrus (the Osmothèque’s "Hespéridé")
perfumery convention
Eau De Cologne Impériale GUERLAIN 1853 EDC Hespéridé Pierre-François-Pascal
OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums · read 2026-09-30
the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure
confidence B
- Components
Under each component, the evidence for its place in the accord. Teaching parts are a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula. Component Role Teaching parts Volatility Bergamot essential oil perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention
confidence B
top perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
45 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil
Limonene documented
They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).
GC-3 · Navarra M, Mannucci C, Delbò M, Calapai G · read 2026-09-30
the component is a named constituent of bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto) (that record’s identity field); named by a review of the oil (a secondary witness; cited there to Mondello et al. 1998)
confidence B
top documented
Typically, fresh and citric odorants, e.g., limonene, are top notes, while warm and sweet odorants such as vanillin are base notes
KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P · read 2026-09-30
confidence A
15 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
top modeled
modeled
the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: the simulator’s data is a set of site constants, not measurements)
confidence C
Linalyl acetate documented
They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).
GC-3 · Navarra M, Mannucci C, Delbò M, Calapai G · read 2026-09-30
the component is a named constituent of bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto) (that record’s identity field); named by the same review sentence as limonene; the page’s “principal molecule” for bergamot
confidence B
heart perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
10 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for linalyl-acetate
Linalool documented
They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).
GC-3 · Navarra M, Mannucci C, Delbò M, Calapai G · read 2026-09-30
the component is a named constituent of bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto) (that record’s identity field); named by the same review sentence
confidence B
heart perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
10 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
top modeled
modeled
the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: the simulator’s data is a set of site constants, not measurements)
confidence C
Lavender essential oil perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention
confidence B
heart documented
Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes
KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P · read 2026-09-30
the review names lavender among the floral heart notes
confidence A
20 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for lavender-essential-oil
- Substitutions
- For bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto): A bergamot oil with its furocoumarins removed, for skin in the sun.
documented
However, in order to guarantee safety, bergapten and other phototoxic components should be removed from BEO, thus resulting a furocoumarin-free BEO.
GC-3 · Navarra M, Mannucci C, Delbò M, Calapai G · read 2026-09-30
the review’s recommendation; IFRA restricts the expressed oil for phototoxicity (IFRA-087, IFRA-089)
confidence A
- For bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto): A bergamot oil with its furocoumarins removed, for skin in the sun.
- Regulations that apply to a component
- Fragrances of this family
Causal Debugger why did this change matter?
Teaching accord · modeled A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin. Everything below is computed by a teaching model from the records: modeled, not measured, and not a prediction of how any real perfume smells. Regulation lines are flags, not compliance advice.
Change one thing and follow it down the chain: the proportions, the molecules, the words on record, a modeled reading, the dry-down, odour activity where a threshold is measured, the regulations, the provenance. Then: why it mattered.
Modeled · before → after
Choose one component and one change: each layer of the chain appears here, labelled modeled, each input with its evidence.
What happens if… every single change, worked out
The same model, run when this page was built. Figures are modeled: parts, and shares per 100 parts; odour space is the share of the accord whose components carry each word; the dry-down uses the half-lives top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h (the simulator’s site constants, not measurements); odour activity is share ÷ measured threshold, compared within one medium and unit, never across (a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord). This teaching accord is not a finished product and is not assessed. Nothing is for sale.
Double bergamot essential oil (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- bergamot essential oil 45 → 90 parts (45.0 → 62.1 per 100); the others ×0.69.
- 2 · Molecules
- with bergamot essential oil rise limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “citrus” 45.0 → 62.1, “fresh” 60.0 → 72.4, “bright” 15.0 → 10.3, “uplifting” 15.0 → 10.3; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 13.8.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and less “bright” and “uplifting”, with more of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 79.3 / 20.7 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 1.9 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “citrus” go from 45.0 to 62.1 per 100 parts, because bergamot essential oil carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 70.0 to 79.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 1.9 h instead of 2.1 h (bergamot essential oil is top, from its role in the accord).
Remove bergamot essential oil
- 1 · Composition
- bergamot essential oil 45 → 0 parts (45.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.82.
- 2 · Molecules
- with bergamot essential oil leave limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “citrus” 45.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 60.0 → 27.3, “bright” 15.0 → 27.3, “uplifting” 15.0 → 27.3; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 36.4.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “bright” and “uplifting”, less “fresh” and no “citrus” left, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 45.5 / 54.5 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 3.0 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- Flags leaving the accord: IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed; IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils.
- Why did this change matter?
- It takes the “IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
- It takes the “IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
- bergamot essential oil carried “citrus” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double limonene (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- limonene 15 → 30 parts (15.0 → 26.1 per 100); the others ×0.87.
- 2 · Molecules
- limonene itself rises.
- 3 · Odour space
- “bright” 15.0 → 26.1, “uplifting” 15.0 → 26.1, “citrus” 45.0 → 39.1, “fresh” 60.0 → 65.2; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 17.4.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “bright” and “uplifting” and less “citrus” and “medicinal”, with more of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 73.9 / 26.1 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.0 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- limonene (0.038 ppm (v/v) in air, measured): ×1.74; no ratio with linalyl acetate (air, ng/L); no ratio with linalool (air, ng/L).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “bright” go from 15.0 to 26.1 per 100 parts, because limonene carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 70.0 to 73.9 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.0 h instead of 2.1 h (limonene is top, from its volatility class, modeled).
Remove limonene
- 1 · Composition
- limonene 15 → 0 parts (15.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.18.
- 2 · Molecules
- limonene itself leaves.
- 3 · Odour space
- “bright” 15.0 → 0.0, “uplifting” 15.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 45.0 → 52.9, “fresh” 60.0 → 52.9; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 23.5.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “medicinal”, less “fresh” and no “bright” and “uplifting” left, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 64.7 / 35.3 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.3 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- limonene (0.038 ppm (v/v) in air, measured): ×0; no ratio with linalyl acetate (air, ng/L); no ratio with linalool (air, ng/L).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- limonene carried “bright” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- limonene carried “uplifting” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- Components carrying “citrus” go from 45.0 to 52.9 per 100 parts, because limonene, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
Double linalyl acetate (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- linalyl acetate 10 → 20 parts (10.0 → 18.2 per 100); the others ×0.91.
- 2 · Molecules
- linalyl acetate itself rises.
- 3 · Odour space
- “refined” 10.0 → 18.2, “sweet” 10.0 → 18.2, “fresh” 60.0 → 54.5, “citrus” 45.0 → 40.9; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 18.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “refined” and “sweet” and less “fresh” and “citrus”, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 63.6 / 36.4 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.3 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- linalyl acetate (110.9 ng/L in air, measured): ×1.82; lead in air (ng/L): linalool; linalyl acetate 0.03 → 0.06 of the leader; no ratio with limonene (air, ppm (v/v)).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “refined” go from 10.0 to 18.2 per 100 parts, because linalyl acetate carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 30.0 to 36.4 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.3 h instead of 2.1 h (linalyl acetate is heart, from its role in the accord).
Remove linalyl acetate
- 1 · Composition
- linalyl acetate 10 → 0 parts (10.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.11.
- 2 · Molecules
- linalyl acetate itself leaves.
- 3 · Odour space
- “refined” 10.0 → 0.0, “sweet” 10.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 60.0 → 66.7, “citrus” 45.0 → 50.0; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 22.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “fresh” and “citrus” and no “refined” and “sweet” left, with more of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 77.8 / 22.2 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 1.9 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- linalyl acetate (110.9 ng/L in air, measured): ×0; lead in air (ng/L): linalool; no ratio with limonene (air, ppm (v/v)).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- linalyl acetate carried “refined” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- linalyl acetate carried “sweet” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 30.0 to 22.2 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 1.9 h instead of 2.1 h (linalyl acetate is heart, from its role in the accord).
Double linalool (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- linalool 10 → 20 parts (10.0 → 18.2 per 100); the others ×0.91.
- 2 · Molecules
- linalool itself rises.
- 3 · Odour space
- “medicinal” 10.0 → 18.2, “sharp” 10.0 → 18.2, “fresh” 60.0 → 54.5, “citrus” 45.0 → 40.9; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 18.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “medicinal” and “sharp” and less “fresh” and “citrus”.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 72.7 / 27.3 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.0 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- linalool (3.2 ng/L in air, measured): ×1.82; lead in air (ng/L): linalool; no ratio with limonene (air, ppm (v/v)).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “medicinal” go from 10.0 to 18.2 per 100 parts, because linalool carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 70.0 to 72.7 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.0 h instead of 2.1 h (linalool is top, from its volatility class, modeled).
Remove linalool
- 1 · Composition
- linalool 10 → 0 parts (10.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.11.
- 2 · Molecules
- linalool itself leaves.
- 3 · Odour space
- “medicinal” 10.0 → 0.0, “sharp” 10.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 60.0 → 66.7, “citrus” 45.0 → 50.0; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 22.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “fresh” and “citrus” and no “medicinal” and “sharp” left, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 66.7 / 33.3 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.2 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- linalool (3.2 ng/L in air, measured): ×0; lead in air (ng/L): linalool → linalyl acetate; no ratio with limonene (air, ppm (v/v)).
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- In odour activity (share ÷ measured threshold, compared in air, ng/L), the lead passes from linalool to linalyl acetate: a trace with a low threshold counts far beyond its share.
- linalool carried “medicinal” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- linalool carried “sharp” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double lavender essential oil (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- lavender essential oil 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
- 2 · Molecules
- with lavender essential oil rise linalool, linalyl acetate and α-terpineol (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “fresh” 60.0 → 50.0, “citrus” 45.0 → 37.5, “bright” 15.0 → 12.5, “uplifting” 15.0 → 12.5; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 33.3.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: less “fresh” and “citrus”, with less of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 58.3 / 41.7 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 2.5 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- lavender essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 30.0 to 41.7 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.5 h instead of 2.1 h (lavender essential oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “fresh” go from 60.0 to 50.0 per 100 parts, because lavender essential oil, which does not carry it, now takes more of the accord.
Remove lavender essential oil
- 1 · Composition
- lavender essential oil 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
- 2 · Molecules
- with lavender essential oil leave linalool, linalyl acetate and α-terpineol (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “fresh” 60.0 → 75.0, “citrus” 45.0 → 56.3, “bright” 15.0 → 18.8, “uplifting” 15.0 → 18.8; no descriptor on record: 20.0 → 0.0.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “fresh” and “citrus”, with more of it in the opening.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 70.0 / 30.0 / 0.0 → 87.5 / 12.5 / 0.0; half gone at 2.1 h → 1.7 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- lavender essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 30.0 to 12.5 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 1.7 h instead of 2.1 h (lavender essential oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “fresh” go from 60.0 to 75.0 per 100 parts, because lavender essential oil, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
Named by the record, not computed (no record for the substitute): bergamot essential oil: A bergamot oil with its furocoumarins removed, for skin in the sun.
What the model reads, with its evidence
- bergamot essential oil
- descriptors: fresh, citrus· class: top (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed (restriction); IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils (restriction); Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: from Citrus bergamia Risso; grown in Calabria
documented
PDO-1 · listed on the record
field: material/bergamot-essential-oil · descriptors · in this repository: PDO-1
- limonene
- descriptors: bright, fresh, uplifting· class: top (volatility, modeled) · threshold: 0.038 ppm (v/v) in air
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
field: molecule/limonene · descriptors · in this repository: /materials, “The molecules behind nature’s masterworks”
· regulation: Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (a labelling condition (Annex III)); Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: occurs in bergamot essential oilmeasured
OT-3 · listed on the record
field: molecule/limonene · threshold · in this repository: OT-3
- linalyl acetate
- descriptors: refined, sweet· class: heart (role) · threshold: 110.9 ng/L in air
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
field: molecule/linalyl-acetate · descriptors · in this repository: /materials, “Lavandula angustifolia”
· regulation: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: occurs in bergamot essential oilmeasured
OT-2 · listed on the record
field: molecule/linalyl-acetate · threshold · in this repository: OT-2
- linalool
- descriptors: sharp, medicinal· class: top (volatility, modeled) · threshold: 3.2 ng/L in air
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
field: molecule/linalool · descriptors · in this repository: /materials, “Lavandula angustifolia”
· regulation: Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (a labelling condition (Annex III)) · provenance: occurs in bergamot essential oilmeasured
OT-2 · listed on the record
field: molecule/linalool · threshold · in this repository: OT-2
- lavender essential oil
- descriptors: not on record · class: heart (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: from Lavandula angustifolia Mill.; grown in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence; grown in Grasse; The AOC for Haute-Provence lavender, 1981 (documented)
the model’s input as data: /data/causal/cologne-teaching-accord.json · the model and its formulas: the site’s build
Sources
- OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums. Collection Osmothèque, juin 2015 (PDF list: name, house, launch year, concentration, family, sub-family, perfumers). www.osmotheque.fr/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Col… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; quoted row by row, not filed
- KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P. Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2022;18:754–768. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
- GC-3 · Navarra M, Mannucci C, Delbò M, Calapai G. Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application. Frontiers in Pharmacology 2015;6:36. DOI 10.3389/fphar.2015.00036. PMID 25784877. PMCID PMC4345801. doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2015.00036 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY (open access, as the article states); short quotes only, the text is not filed
These records are published under CC BY 4.0.
this record as data: /data/accord/cologne-teaching-accord.json · version 1 · updated 2026-09-30 · confidence B