{
 "license": "https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/",
 "id": "cologne-teaching-accord",
 "type": "Accord",
 "version": 2,
 "updated": "2026-09-30",
 "station": 8,
 "confidence": "B",
 "sources": [
  "OSMO-1",
  "KLE-1",
  "GC-3",
  "IFRA-087"
 ],
 "name": {
  "value": "A cologne",
  "evidence": "house interpretation",
  "source": null,
  "where": null,
  "confidence": "C",
  "note": "the house’s name for this teaching accord"
 },
 "purpose": "teaching",
 "disclaimer": "A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.",
 "structure": {
  "value": "A cologne: bergamot and its citrus molecules on top, a lavender heart, and nothing heavy under them.",
  "evidence": "perfumery convention",
  "source": null,
  "where": null,
  "confidence": "B",
  "note": "the trade’s convention; the Osmothèque classes Eau de Cologne Impériale (1853) and Eau Sauvage (1966) as Hespéridé (citrus)"
 },
 "family": {
  "value": "citrus (the Osmothèque’s \"Hespéridé\")",
  "evidence": "perfumery convention",
  "source": "OSMO-1",
  "where": "docs/sources/OSMO-1-osmotheque-collection-2015.md:17",
  "quote": "Eau De Cologne Impériale GUERLAIN 1853 EDC Hespéridé Pierre-François-Pascal",
  "confidence": "B",
  "note": "the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure"
 },
 "components": [
  {
   "material": "bergamot-essential-oil",
   "role": {
    "value": "top",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 45,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "the citrus top of a cologne",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s convention"
   }
  },
  {
   "molecule": "limonene",
   "role": {
    "value": "top",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "KLE-1",
    "where": "docs/sources/KLE-1-kleoff-2022-odorants-in-flow.md:21",
    "quote": "Typically, fresh and citric odorants, e.g., limonene, are top notes, while warm and sweet odorants such as vanillin are base notes",
    "confidence": "A"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 15,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": "top",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "source": null,
    "where": "data/1b/volatility.json:26",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: data/1b/volatility.json is a set of site constants, not measurements)"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "a constituent of bergamot oil",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "GC-3",
    "where": "docs/sources/GC-3-navarra-2015-bergamot-oil.md:22",
    "confidence": "B",
    "quote": "They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).",
    "note": "the component is a named constituent of bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto) (that record’s identity field); named by a review of the oil (a secondary witness; cited there to Mondello et al. 1998)"
   }
  },
  {
   "molecule": "linalyl-acetate",
   "role": {
    "value": "heart",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 10,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for linalyl-acetate"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "a constituent of bergamot oil",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "GC-3",
    "where": "docs/sources/GC-3-navarra-2015-bergamot-oil.md:22",
    "confidence": "B",
    "quote": "They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).",
    "note": "the component is a named constituent of bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto) (that record’s identity field); named by the same review sentence as limonene; the page’s “principal molecule” for bergamot"
   }
  },
  {
   "molecule": "linalool",
   "role": {
    "value": "heart",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 10,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": "top",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "source": null,
    "where": "data/1b/volatility.json:38",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: data/1b/volatility.json is a set of site constants, not measurements)"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "a constituent of bergamot oil",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "GC-3",
    "where": "docs/sources/GC-3-navarra-2015-bergamot-oil.md:22",
    "confidence": "B",
    "quote": "They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).",
    "note": "the component is a named constituent of bergamot essential oil (olio essenziale di bergamotto) (that record’s identity field); named by the same review sentence"
   }
  },
  {
   "material": "lavender-essential-oil",
   "role": {
    "value": "heart",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "KLE-1",
    "where": "docs/sources/KLE-1-kleoff-2022-odorants-in-flow.md:27",
    "quote": "Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "the review names lavender among the floral heart notes"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 20,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for lavender-essential-oil"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "the aromatic heart of a cologne",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s convention"
   }
  }
 ],
 "substitutions": [
  {
   "for": "bergamot-essential-oil",
   "value": "A bergamot oil with its furocoumarins removed, for skin in the sun.",
   "evidence": "documented",
   "source": "GC-3",
   "where": "docs/sources/GC-3-navarra-2015-bergamot-oil.md:31",
   "quote": "However, in order to guarantee safety, bergapten and other phototoxic components should be removed from BEO, thus resulting a furocoumarin-free BEO.",
   "confidence": "A",
   "note": "the review’s recommendation; IFRA restricts the expressed oil for phototoxicity (IFRA-087, IFRA-089)"
  }
 ],
 "history": [
  "eau-de-cologne-imperiale-1853",
  "eau-sauvage-launch-1966"
 ],
 "fragrances": [
  "eau-de-cologne-imperiale",
  "eau-sauvage"
 ],
 "regulations": [
  "ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed",
  "ifra-citrus-furocoumarins",
  "eu-2009-1223",
  "eu-2023-1545"
 ],
 "descriptors": [
  "fresh",
  "citrus",
  "bright",
  "uplifting",
  "refined",
  "sweet",
  "sharp",
  "medicinal"
 ],
 "media": [],
 "links": {
  "essay": "/science#accord-building",
  "tool": "/atelier#accord-architect"
 },
 "copy": {
  "lede": "A cologne: bergamot and its molecules over a lavender heart.",
  "body": [
   "Everything in it is volatile, so it is bright and brief. The bergamot also shows why a natural oil can be regulated: its furocoumarins are phototoxic."
  ]
 },
 "teaching_variants": [
  {
   "id": "v1",
   "label": "The cologne as written",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "the record as written",
   "as_written": true,
   "why": {
    "value": "The cologne as the record writes it: bergamot and its citrus molecules over a lavender heart.",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the accord record’s structure field (perfumery convention); the Osmothèque classes Eau de Cologne Impériale (1853) and Eau Sauvage (1966) as citrus, linked for context only"
   },
   "regulations": [],
   "history": [],
   "fragrances": [
    "eau-de-cologne-imperiale",
    "eau-sauvage"
   ]
  },
  {
   "id": "v2",
   "label": "Less bergamot oil",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "regulation on record",
   "why": {
    "value": "The bergamot rules. IFRA Standards (the industry’s own standards, not law) restrict expressed bergamot oil and citrus oils that contain furocoumarins, set for phototoxicity. Less of the oil and more of two molecules its record names, limonene and linalyl acetate, is a house teaching example of a response; the oil’s furocoumarin content is not on record as a figure.",
    "evidence": "inferred",
    "source": "IFRA-087",
    "where": "docs/sources/IFRA-087-bergamot-oil-expressed.md:26",
    "quote": "INTRINSIC PROPERTY DRIVING RISK MANAGEMENT: PHOTOTOXICITY",
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the standards are documented (their Regulation records); the response and the parts are the house’s, modeled. US law: not on record"
   },
   "regulations": [
    "ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed",
    "ifra-citrus-furocoumarins"
   ],
   "history": [],
   "fragrances": [],
   "components": [
    {
     "material": "bergamot-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 25,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "limonene",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 30,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "linalyl-acetate",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 15,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "linalool",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 10,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "material": "lavender-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 20,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    }
   ]
  },
  {
   "id": "v3",
   "label": "Lavender-forward",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "house teaching example",
   "why": {
    "value": "A house teaching example: the lavender heart made larger and the citrus smaller, toward the lavender of the fougère, to show how the modeled dry-down and the words shift.",
    "evidence": "house interpretation",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "a house teaching example: no filed source documents this version, and it is not a reconstruction of any perfume"
   },
   "regulations": [],
   "history": [],
   "fragrances": [],
   "components": [
    {
     "material": "bergamot-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 30,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "limonene",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 10,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "linalyl-acetate",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 15,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "linalool",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 10,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "material": "lavender-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 35,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    }
   ]
  }
 ]
}