The recordsAll teaching accords
Station 8 of 13 · Accord · the record
A woody-ambery
A woody-ambery: Iso E Super over sandalwood and vetiver.
Teaching accord A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.
Iso E Super is the lesson: one synthetic material carrying a whole dry, woody-ambery impression, descended from the ionones. The natural woods under it give it a body.
The record
Each field carries its evidence: open a chip for the source, the quoted words and the confidence. A field with nothing behind it says so and stays empty.
- Name
- A woody-ambery
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the house’s name for this teaching accord
confidence C
- Purpose
- teaching
house rule
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the site’s rule: every accord on record is a teaching accord; the house’s own formulas never enter the repository (brief §12.7)
confidence B
- Structure
- A woody-ambery: Iso E Super’s dry, ambergris-like woods over sandalwood’s cream and vetiver’s smoke.
perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention; Iso E Super’s descriptors are documented on its record (ISO-2)
confidence B
- Family
- wood
perfumery convention
Classification of 1. top notes: a) citrus, b) aldehydic, c) fruity, d) green and e) herbaceous/herbal, 2. heart notes: a) floral light, b) floral green, c) floral fresh, d), floral fruity, e) floral heavy and f) floral woody and 3. bottom notes: a) aromatic, b) balsamic, c) moss/leather/animalic, d) musk, e) amber and f) wood.
ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A · read 2026-09-30
the family name as the review’s classification spells it
confidence B
- Components
Under each component, the evidence for its place in the accord. Teaching parts are a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula. Component Role Teaching parts Volatility Iso E Super documented
Iso E Super® (33) | 59056-94-9 | woody, floral, ambergris, violet, old-wood, lemony (500 ng L−1)
ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A · read 2026-09-30
confidence A
heart perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
55 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for iso-e-super
Sandalwood oil perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention
confidence B
base perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
25 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for sandalwood-oil
Vetiver oil perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention
confidence B
base perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
20 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for vetiver-oil
- Substitutions
- For sandalwood oil: α-Santalol in place of sandalwood oil: with β-santalol, the main contributor to its scent. (α-santalol)
inferred
The α- and β-santalols are the most important contributors to sandalwood oil fragrance [3]–[5].
GC-7 · Diaz-Chavez ML, Moniodis J, Madilao LL, Jancsik S, Keeling CI, Barbour EL, Ghisalberti EL, · read 2026-09-30
inferred from the study; one molecule is not the oil
confidence B
- For sandalwood oil: α-Santalol in place of sandalwood oil: with β-santalol, the main contributor to its scent. (α-santalol)
- Regulations that apply to a component
Causal Debugger why did this change matter?
Teaching accord · modeled A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin. Everything below is computed by a teaching model from the records: modeled, not measured, and not a prediction of how any real perfume smells. Regulation lines are flags, not compliance advice.
Change one thing and follow it down the chain: the proportions, the molecules, the words on record, a modeled reading, the dry-down, odour activity where a threshold is measured, the regulations, the provenance. Then: why it mattered.
Modeled · before → after
Choose one component and one change: each layer of the chain appears here, labelled modeled, each input with its evidence.
What happens if… every single change, worked out
The same model, run when this page was built. Figures are modeled: parts, and shares per 100 parts; odour space is the share of the accord whose components carry each word; the dry-down uses the half-lives top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h (the simulator’s site constants, not measurements); odour activity is share ÷ measured threshold, compared within one medium and unit, never across (a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord). This teaching accord is not a finished product and is not assessed. Nothing is for sale.
Double Iso E Super (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- Iso E Super 55 → 110 parts (55.0 → 71.0 per 100); the others ×0.65.
- 2 · Molecules
- Iso E Super itself rises.
- 3 · Odour space
- “ambergris” 55.0 → 71.0, “floral” 55.0 → 71.0, “lemony” 55.0 → 71.0, “violet” 55.0 → 71.0.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “ambergris” and “floral” and less “creamy” and “milky”, with less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 55.0 / 45.0 → 0.0 / 71.0 / 29.0; half gone at 8.0 h → 7.2 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- Iso E Super: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 55.0 to 71.0 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 7.2 h instead of 8.0 h (Iso E Super is heart, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “ambergris” go from 55.0 to 71.0 per 100 parts, because Iso E Super carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove Iso E Super
- 1 · Composition
- Iso E Super 55 → 0 parts (55.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×2.22.
- 2 · Molecules
- Iso E Super itself leaves.
- 3 · Odour space
- “ambergris” 55.0 → 0.0, “floral” 55.0 → 0.0, “lemony” 55.0 → 0.0, “violet” 55.0 → 0.0.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “creamy” and “milky” and no “ambergris”, “floral” and “lemony” left, with more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 55.0 / 45.0 → 0.0 / 0.0 / 100.0; half gone at 8.0 h → 12 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- Iso E Super: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 55.0 to 0.0 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 12 h instead of 8.0 h (Iso E Super is heart, from its role in the accord).
- Iso E Super carried “ambergris” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- Iso E Super carried “floral” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double sandalwood oil (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- sandalwood oil 25 → 50 parts (25.0 → 40.0 per 100); the others ×0.80.
- 2 · Molecules
- with sandalwood oil rise α-santalol and β-santalol (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “creamy” 25.0 → 40.0, “milky” 25.0 → 40.0, “sweet” 25.0 → 40.0, “ambergris” 55.0 → 44.0.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “creamy” and “milky” and less “ambergris” and “floral”, with more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 55.0 / 45.0 → 0.0 / 44.0 / 56.0; half gone at 8.0 h → 8.7 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- sandalwood oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “creamy” go from 25.0 to 40.0 per 100 parts, because sandalwood oil carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 45.0 to 56.0 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 8.7 h instead of 8.0 h (sandalwood oil is base, from its role in the accord).
Remove sandalwood oil
- 1 · Composition
- sandalwood oil 25 → 0 parts (25.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.33.
- 2 · Molecules
- with sandalwood oil leave α-santalol and β-santalol (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “creamy” 25.0 → 0.0, “milky” 25.0 → 0.0, “sweet” 25.0 → 0.0, “ambergris” 55.0 → 73.3.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “ambergris” and “floral” and no “creamy”, “milky” and “sweet” left, with less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 55.0 / 45.0 → 0.0 / 73.3 / 26.7; half gone at 8.0 h → 7.1 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- sandalwood oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- sandalwood oil carried “creamy” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- sandalwood oil carried “milky” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- sandalwood oil carried “sweet” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double vetiver oil (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- vetiver oil 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
- 2 · Molecules
- with vetiver oil rise khusimol (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “rooty” 20.0 → 33.3, “smoky” 20.0 → 33.3, “ambergris” 55.0 → 45.8, “floral” 55.0 → 45.8.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “rooty” and “smoky” and less “ambergris” and “floral”, with more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 55.0 / 45.0 → 0.0 / 45.8 / 54.2; half gone at 8.0 h → 8.6 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- vetiver oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “rooty” go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, because vetiver oil carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 45.0 to 54.2 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 8.6 h instead of 8.0 h (vetiver oil is base, from its role in the accord).
Remove vetiver oil
- 1 · Composition
- vetiver oil 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
- 2 · Molecules
- with vetiver oil leave khusimol (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “rooty” 20.0 → 0.0, “smoky” 20.0 → 0.0, “ambergris” 55.0 → 68.8, “floral” 55.0 → 68.8.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “ambergris” and “floral” and no “rooty” and “smoky” left, with less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 55.0 / 45.0 → 0.0 / 68.8 / 31.3; half gone at 8.0 h → 7.3 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- vetiver oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- vetiver oil carried “rooty” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- vetiver oil carried “smoky” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 45.0 to 31.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 7.3 h instead of 8.0 h (vetiver oil is base, from its role in the accord).
Replace sandalwood oil with α-santalol
- 1 · Composition
- sandalwood oil 25 → 0 parts (25.0 → 0.0 per 100); α-santalol 0 → 25 parts (0.0 → 25.0 per 100); the others ×1.00.
- 2 · Molecules
- with sandalwood oil leave α-santalol and β-santalol (no shares on record); α-santalol itself arrives.
- 3 · Odour space
- “creamy” 25.0 → 0.0, “milky” 25.0 → 0.0, “sweet” 25.0 → 0.0; no descriptor on record: 0.0 → 25.0.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: no “creamy”, “milky” and “sweet” left.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 55.0 / 45.0 → 0.0 / 55.0 / 45.0; half gone at 8.0 h → 8.0 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- sandalwood oil: no threshold on record; α-santalol: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- sandalwood oil carried “creamy” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- sandalwood oil carried “milky” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- sandalwood oil carried “sweet” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
What the model reads, with its evidence
- Iso E Super
- descriptors: woody, floral, ambergris, violet, lemony· class: heart (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: Iso E Super, 1972 (documented)
documented
ISO-2 · listed on the record
field: molecule/iso-e-super · descriptors · in this repository: ISO-2
- sandalwood oil
- descriptors: creamy, milky, sweet· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: from Santalum album L.; grown in Mysore; The sandalwood act amended in Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, 2001 and 2002 (documented)
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
field: material/sandalwood-oil · descriptors · in this repository: /materials, “Lavandula angustifolia”
- vetiver oil
- descriptors: smoky, rooty· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: none on record · provenance: from Chrysopogon zizanioides (L.) Roberty; grown in Haiti
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
field: material/vetiver-oil · descriptors · in this repository: /materials, “Haitian Vetiver”
- α-santalol (a substitute)
- descriptors: not on record · class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: occurs in sandalwood oil
the model’s input as data: /data/causal/woody-ambery-teaching-accord.json · the model and its formulas: the site’s build
Sources
- ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A. Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2019;15:2590–2602. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.15.252 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
- GC-7 · Diaz-Chavez ML, Moniodis J, Madilao LL, Jancsik S, Keeling CI, Barbour EL, Ghisalberti EL, Plummer JA, Jones CG, Bohlmann J. Biosynthesis of Sandalwood Oil: Santalum album CYP76F Cytochromes P450 Produce Santalols and Bergamotol. PLoS ONE 2013;8(9):e75053. DOI 10.1371/journal.pone.0075053. PMID 24324844. PMCID PMC3854609. doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0075053 · read 2026-09-30 · Creative Commons Attribution License (open access, as the article states); short quotes only, the text is not filed
These records are published under CC BY 4.0.
this record as data: /data/accord/woody-ambery-teaching-accord.json · version 1 · updated 2026-09-30 · confidence B