The recordsAll teaching accords

Station 8 of 13 · Accord · the record

The fougère skeleton

The fougère skeleton: coumarin, oakmoss, geranium and bergamot, as a review names Fougère Royale’s materials, and lavender, as the family came to use it.

Teaching accord A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.

Coumarin gives the sweet hay, oakmoss the damp depth, bergamot the lift. Fougère Royale lent its name to a whole family of perfumes, and this skeleton is what they share.

Read the essay

The record

Each field carries its evidence: open a chip for the source, the quoted words and the confidence. A field with nothing behind it says so and stays empty.

Name
The fougère skeleton
house interpretation

the house’s own reading, labelled as such

the house’s name for this teaching accord

confidence C

Purpose
teaching
house rule

the house’s own reading, labelled as such

the site’s rule: every accord on record is a teaching accord; the house’s own formulas never enter the repository (brief §12.7)

confidence B

Structure
The fougère skeleton after Fougère Royale: coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, with lavender as the family has used it since.
documented

In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant

ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A · read 2026-09-30

the four named materials are documented (ISO-2); lavender is the trade’s convention for the family and is marked so on its component

confidence A

Family
fougère (the Osmothèque’s "Fougère")
perfumery convention

Jicky GUERLAIN 1889 EXT Fougère Fougère Aimé Guerlain

OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums · read 2026-09-30

the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure

confidence B

Components
Under each component, the evidence for its place in the accord. Teaching parts are a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula.
ComponentRoleTeaching partsVolatility
Bergamot essential oil
documented

In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant

ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A · read 2026-09-30

named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)

confidence A

top
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material

confidence B

20 parts
modeled

modeled

teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

confidence C

not on record
why

no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil

Lavender essential oil
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

no filed source names lavender in Fougère Royale; its place in the fougère family is the trade’s convention

confidence B

heart
documented

Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes

KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P · read 2026-09-30

the review names lavender among the floral heart notes

confidence A

30 parts
modeled

modeled

teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

confidence C

not on record
why

no volatility class on record for lavender-essential-oil

geranium oil (no Material record yet)
documented

In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant

ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A · read 2026-09-30

named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)

confidence A

heart
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material

confidence B

15 parts
modeled

modeled

teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

confidence C

not on record
why

no record for this component, so no volatility class

Coumarin
documented

In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant

ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A · read 2026-09-30

named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)

confidence A

base
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material

confidence B

20 parts
modeled

modeled

teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

confidence C

not on record
why

no volatility class on record for coumarin

Oakmoss absolute
documented

In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant

ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A · read 2026-09-30

named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)

confidence A

base
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material

confidence B

15 parts
modeled

modeled

teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making

confidence C

not on record
why

no volatility class on record for oakmoss-absolute

Substitutions
  • For oakmoss absolute (oak moss extract): An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires.
    inferred

    Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.

    IFRA-067 · International Fragrance Association (IFRA) · read 2026-09-30

    inferred from the standard; no filed source names a commercial substitute

    confidence B

Regulations that apply to a component
Odour descriptors
In history
Fragrances of this family

Causal Debugger why did this change matter?

Teaching accord · modeled A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin. Everything below is computed by a teaching model from the records: modeled, not measured, and not a prediction of how any real perfume smells. Regulation lines are flags, not compliance advice.

Change one thing and follow it down the chain: the proportions, the molecules, the words on record, a modeled reading, the dry-down, odour activity where a threshold is measured, the regulations, the provenance. Then: why it mattered.

One change

Without JavaScript these controls stay still: every single change is worked out below.

Modeled · before → after

Choose one component and one change: each layer of the chain appears here, labelled modeled, each input with its evidence.

What happens if… every single change, worked out

The same model, run when this page was built. Figures are modeled: parts, and shares per 100 parts; odour space is the share of the accord whose components carry each word; the dry-down uses the half-lives top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h (the simulator’s site constants, not measurements); odour activity is share ÷ measured threshold, compared within one medium and unit, never across (a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord). This teaching accord is not a finished product and is not assessed. Nothing is for sale.

Double bergamot essential oil (×2)
1 · Composition
bergamot essential oil 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
2 · Molecules
with bergamot essential oil rise limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 33.3, “fresh” 20.0 → 33.3, “hay” 20.0 → 16.7, “spicy” 20.0 → 16.7; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 37.5.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and less “hay” and “spicy”, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 33.3 / 37.5 / 29.2; half gone at 5.7 h → 4.3 h.
6 · Odour activity
bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 4.3 h instead of 5.7 h (bergamot essential oil is top, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, because bergamot essential oil carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove bergamot essential oil
1 · Composition
bergamot essential oil 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
2 · Molecules
with bergamot essential oil leave limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 20.0 → 0.0, “hay” 20.0 → 25.0, “spicy” 20.0 → 25.0; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 56.3.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “hay” and “spicy” and no “citrus” and “fresh” left, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 0.0 / 56.3 / 43.8; half gone at 5.7 h → 8.0 h.
6 · Odour activity
bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
Flags leaving the accord: IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed; IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils.
Why did this change matter?
  1. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
  2. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
  3. bergamot essential oil carried “citrus” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double lavender essential oil (×2)
1 · Composition
lavender essential oil 30 → 60 parts (30.0 → 46.2 per 100); the others ×0.77.
2 · Molecules
with lavender essential oil rise linalool, linalyl acetate and α-terpineol (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 15.4, “fresh” 20.0 → 15.4, “hay” 20.0 → 15.4, “spicy” 20.0 → 15.4; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 57.7.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 15.4 / 57.7 / 26.9; half gone at 5.7 h → 5.8 h.
6 · Odour activity
lavender essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 45.0 to 57.7 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 5.8 h instead of 5.7 h (lavender essential oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 15.4 per 100 parts, because lavender essential oil, which does not carry it, now takes more of the accord.
Remove lavender essential oil
1 · Composition
lavender essential oil 30 → 0 parts (30.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.43.
2 · Molecules
with lavender essential oil leave linalool, linalyl acetate and α-terpineol (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 28.6, “fresh” 20.0 → 28.6, “hay” 20.0 → 28.6, “spicy” 20.0 → 28.6; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 21.4.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh”, with more of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 28.6 / 21.4 / 50.0; half gone at 5.7 h → 5.5 h.
6 · Odour activity
lavender essential oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 45.0 to 21.4 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 5.5 h instead of 5.7 h (lavender essential oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 28.6 per 100 parts, because lavender essential oil, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
Double geranium oil (×2)
1 · Composition
geranium oil 15 → 30 parts (15.0 → 26.1 per 100); the others ×0.87.
2 · Molecules
geranium oil rises, and it has no record.
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 17.4, “fresh” 20.0 → 17.4, “hay” 20.0 → 17.4, “spicy” 20.0 → 17.4; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 52.2.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 17.4 / 52.2 / 30.4; half gone at 5.7 h → 5.7 h.
6 · Odour activity
geranium oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 45.0 to 52.2 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 5.7 h instead of 5.7 h (geranium oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 17.4 per 100 parts, because geranium oil, which does not carry it, now takes more of the accord.
Remove geranium oil
1 · Composition
geranium oil 15 → 0 parts (15.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.18.
2 · Molecules
geranium oil leaves, and it has no record.
3 · Odour space
“citrus” 20.0 → 23.5, “fresh” 20.0 → 23.5, “hay” 20.0 → 23.5, “spicy” 20.0 → 23.5; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 35.3.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh”, with more of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 23.5 / 35.3 / 41.2; half gone at 5.7 h → 5.6 h.
6 · Odour activity
geranium oil: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 45.0 to 35.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 5.6 h instead of 5.7 h (geranium oil is heart, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “citrus” go from 20.0 to 23.5 per 100 parts, because geranium oil, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
Double coumarin (×2)
1 · Composition
coumarin 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
2 · Molecules
coumarin itself rises.
3 · Odour space
“hay” 20.0 → 33.3, “spicy” 20.0 → 33.3, “sweet” 20.0 → 33.3, “citrus” 20.0 → 16.7; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 37.5.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “hay” and “spicy” and less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 16.7 / 37.5 / 45.8; half gone at 5.7 h → 6.5 h.
6 · Odour activity
coumarin: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 35.0 to 45.8 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 6.5 h instead of 5.7 h (coumarin is base, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “hay” go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, because coumarin carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove coumarin
1 · Composition
coumarin 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
2 · Molecules
coumarin itself leaves.
3 · Odour space
“hay” 20.0 → 0.0, “spicy” 20.0 → 0.0, “sweet” 20.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 20.0 → 25.0; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 56.3.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and no “hay”, “spicy” and “sweet” left, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 25.0 / 56.3 / 18.8; half gone at 5.7 h → 4.7 h.
6 · Odour activity
coumarin: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
Flags leaving the accord: IFRA Standard: Coumarin.
Why did this change matter?
  1. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Coumarin” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names coumarin and no other component.
  2. coumarin carried “hay” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
  3. coumarin carried “spicy” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double oakmoss absolute (×2)
1 · Composition
oakmoss absolute 15 → 30 parts (15.0 → 26.1 per 100); the others ×0.87.
2 · Molecules
with oakmoss absolute rise 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-Methylbenzaldehyde and 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“mossy” 15.0 → 26.1, “citrus” 20.0 → 17.4, “fresh” 20.0 → 17.4, “hay” 20.0 → 17.4; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 39.1.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “mossy” and less “citrus” and “fresh”, with more of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 17.4 / 39.1 / 43.5; half gone at 5.7 h → 6.3 h.
6 · Odour activity
oakmoss absolute: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
The accord’s flags do not change.
Why did this change matter?
  1. The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 35.0 to 43.5 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 6.3 h instead of 5.7 h (oakmoss absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
  2. Components carrying “mossy” go from 15.0 to 26.1 per 100 parts, because oakmoss absolute carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove oakmoss absolute
1 · Composition
oakmoss absolute 15 → 0 parts (15.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.18.
2 · Molecules
with oakmoss absolute leave 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-Methylbenzaldehyde and 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde (no shares on record).
3 · Odour space
“mossy” 15.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 20.0 → 23.5, “fresh” 20.0 → 23.5, “hay” 20.0 → 23.5; no descriptor on record: 45.0 → 52.9.
4 · Perceived character
A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and no “mossy” left, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
5 · Dry-down
top / heart / base 20.0 / 45.0 / 35.0 → 23.5 / 52.9 / 23.5; half gone at 5.7 h → 4.9 h.
6 · Odour activity
oakmoss absolute: no threshold on record.
7 · Regulation flags
Flags leaving the accord: Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited); IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts.
Why did this change matter?
  1. It takes the “Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)” flag (a prohibition (Annex II)) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.
  2. It takes the “IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts” flag (restriction / specification) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.
  3. oakmoss absolute carried “mossy” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.

Named by the record, not computed (no record for the substitute): oakmoss absolute: An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires.

What the model reads, with its evidence

bergamot essential oil
descriptors: fresh, citrus
documented

PDO-1 · listed on the record

field: material/bergamot-essential-oil · descriptors · in this repository: PDO-1

· class: top (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed (restriction); IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils (restriction); Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: from Citrus bergamia Risso; grown in Calabria
lavender essential oil
descriptors: not on record · class: heart (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: from Lavandula angustifolia Mill.; grown in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence; grown in Grasse; The AOC for Haute-Provence lavender, 1981 (documented)
geranium oil
descriptors: not on record · class: heart (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: none on record · provenance: no record for this component yet: nothing about it is on record
coumarin
descriptors: sweet, spicy, hay
documented

KLE-1 · listed on the record

field: molecule/coumarin · descriptors · in this repository: KLE-1

· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Coumarin (restriction); Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (a labelling condition (Annex III)) · provenance: Perkin reports a synthesis of coumarin, 1868 (documented)
oakmoss absolute
descriptors: mossy
perfumery convention

the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source

field: material/oakmoss-absolute · descriptors

· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts (restriction / specification); Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (a labelling condition (Annex III)); Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited) (a prohibition (Annex II)) · provenance: from Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.; no origin on record for Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.; HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019 (documented)

the model’s input as data: /data/causal/fougere-teaching-accord.json · the model and its formulas: the site’s build

Sources

  1. ISO-2 · Stepanyuk A, Kirschning A. Synthetic terpenoids in the world of fragrances: Iso E Super® is the showcase. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2019;15:2590–2602. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.15.252 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
  2. OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums. Collection Osmothèque, juin 2015 (PDF list: name, house, launch year, concentration, family, sub-family, perfumers). www.osmotheque.fr/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Col… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; quoted row by row, not filed
  3. KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P. Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2022;18:754–768. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
  4. IFRA-067 · International Fragrance Association (IFRA). IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49 (2020). Geneva: IFRA Standards Library. d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFR… · read 2026-09-30 · published by IFRA; no reuse licence stated; quoted

These records are published under CC BY 4.0.

this record as data: /data/accord/fougere-teaching-accord.json · version 1 · updated 2026-09-30 · confidence A