{
 "license": "https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/",
 "id": "fougere-teaching-accord",
 "type": "Accord",
 "version": 2,
 "updated": "2026-09-30",
 "station": 8,
 "confidence": "A",
 "sources": [
  "ISO-2",
  "OSMO-1",
  "KLE-1",
  "IFRA-067",
  "EU-2017-1410"
 ],
 "name": {
  "value": "The fougère skeleton",
  "evidence": "house interpretation",
  "source": null,
  "where": null,
  "confidence": "C",
  "note": "the house’s name for this teaching accord"
 },
 "purpose": "teaching",
 "disclaimer": "A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.",
 "structure": {
  "value": "The fougère skeleton after Fougère Royale: coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, with lavender as the family has used it since.",
  "evidence": "documented",
  "source": "ISO-2",
  "where": "docs/sources/ISO-2-stepanyuk-kirschning-2019.md:40",
  "quote": "In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant",
  "confidence": "A",
  "note": "the four named materials are documented (ISO-2); lavender is the trade’s convention for the family and is marked so on its component"
 },
 "family": {
  "value": "fougère (the Osmothèque’s \"Fougère\")",
  "evidence": "perfumery convention",
  "source": "OSMO-1",
  "where": "docs/sources/OSMO-1-osmotheque-collection-2015.md:23",
  "quote": "Jicky GUERLAIN 1889 EXT Fougère Fougère Aimé Guerlain",
  "confidence": "B",
  "note": "the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure"
 },
 "components": [
  {
   "material": "bergamot-essential-oil",
   "role": {
    "value": "top",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 20,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "named in Fougère Royale’s composition",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "ISO-2",
    "where": "docs/sources/ISO-2-stepanyuk-kirschning-2019.md:40",
    "quote": "In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)"
   }
  },
  {
   "material": "lavender-essential-oil",
   "role": {
    "value": "heart",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "KLE-1",
    "where": "docs/sources/KLE-1-kleoff-2022-odorants-in-flow.md:27",
    "quote": "Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "the review names lavender among the floral heart notes"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 30,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for lavender-essential-oil"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "the lavender of the fougère family",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "no filed source names lavender in Fougère Royale; its place in the fougère family is the trade’s convention"
   }
  },
  {
   "name": "geranium oil (no Material record yet)",
   "role": {
    "value": "heart",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 15,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no record for this component, so no volatility class"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "named in Fougère Royale’s composition",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "ISO-2",
    "where": "docs/sources/ISO-2-stepanyuk-kirschning-2019.md:40",
    "quote": "In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)"
   }
  },
  {
   "molecule": "coumarin",
   "role": {
    "value": "base",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 20,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for coumarin"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "named in Fougère Royale’s composition",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "ISO-2",
    "where": "docs/sources/ISO-2-stepanyuk-kirschning-2019.md:40",
    "quote": "In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)"
   }
  },
  {
   "material": "oakmoss-absolute",
   "role": {
    "value": "base",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 15,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for oakmoss-absolute"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "named in Fougère Royale’s composition",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "ISO-2",
    "where": "docs/sources/ISO-2-stepanyuk-kirschning-2019.md:40",
    "quote": "In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "named in Fougère Royale’s composition by the review (no proportions)"
   }
  }
 ],
 "substitutions": [
  {
   "for": "oakmoss-absolute",
   "value": "An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires.",
   "evidence": "inferred",
   "source": "IFRA-067",
   "where": "docs/sources/IFRA-067-oakmoss-extracts.md:32",
   "quote": "Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.",
   "confidence": "B",
   "note": "inferred from the standard; no filed source names a commercial substitute"
  }
 ],
 "history": [
  "perkin-coumarin-1868",
  "fougere-royale-launch",
  "jicky-launch-1889",
  "eu-hicc-atranol-ban"
 ],
 "fragrances": [
  "fougere-royale",
  "jicky"
 ],
 "regulations": [
  "ifra-coumarin",
  "ifra-oakmoss-extracts",
  "ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed",
  "ifra-citrus-furocoumarins",
  "eu-2009-1223",
  "eu-2017-1410",
  "eu-2023-1545"
 ],
 "descriptors": [
  "fresh",
  "citrus",
  "sweet",
  "spicy",
  "hay",
  "mossy"
 ],
 "media": [],
 "links": {
  "essay": "/science#accord-building",
  "tool": "/atelier#accord-architect"
 },
 "copy": {
  "lede": "The fougère skeleton: coumarin, oakmoss, geranium and bergamot, as a review names Fougère Royale’s materials, and lavender, as the family came to use it.",
  "body": [
   "Coumarin gives the sweet hay, oakmoss the damp depth, bergamot the lift. Fougère Royale lent its name to a whole family of perfumes, and this skeleton is what they share."
  ]
 },
 "teaching_variants": [
  {
   "id": "v1",
   "label": "The skeleton as written",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "the record as written",
   "as_written": true,
   "why": {
    "value": "The skeleton as the record writes it: the four materials a review names for Fougère Royale, with lavender as the family has used it since.",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "ISO-2",
    "where": "docs/sources/ISO-2-stepanyuk-kirschning-2019.md:40",
    "quote": "In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant",
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the materials are documented; the proportions are the house’s teaching parts, not Fougère Royale’s (none are on record, and none are given)"
   },
   "regulations": [],
   "history": [
    "fougere-royale-launch"
   ],
   "fragrances": [
    "fougere-royale"
   ]
  },
  {
   "id": "v2",
   "label": "Without oakmoss",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "regulation on record",
   "why": {
    "value": "The oakmoss rules. An IFRA Standard (the industry’s own standard, not law) restricts oakmoss extracts by concentration and specifies their atranol and chloroatranol; EU law (Regulation (EU) 2017/1410) prohibits atranol and chloroatranol in cosmetic products from 23 August 2019. Leaving the moss out, its parts given to lavender and coumarin, is a house teaching example of the strictest response.",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "IFRA-067",
    "where": "docs/sources/IFRA-067-oakmoss-extracts.md:29",
    "quote": "For Oakmoss and Treemoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products.",
    "sources": [
     "EU-2017-1410"
    ],
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the rules are documented (their Regulation records); the proportions and the response are the house’s, modeled. US law: not on record"
   },
   "regulations": [
    "ifra-oakmoss-extracts",
    "eu-2017-1410"
   ],
   "history": [
    "eu-hicc-atranol-ban"
   ],
   "fragrances": [],
   "components": [
    {
     "material": "bergamot-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 20,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "material": "lavender-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 35,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "name": "geranium oil (no Material record yet)",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 15,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "coumarin",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 30,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    }
   ]
  },
  {
   "id": "v3",
   "label": "Without coumarin",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "house teaching example",
   "why": {
    "value": "A house teaching example: the skeleton without coumarin, one of the four materials a review names for Fougère Royale, to show what the family’s sweet hay rests on. Perkin’s synthesis of coumarin is linked for context.",
    "evidence": "house interpretation",
    "source": "ISO-2",
    "where": "docs/sources/ISO-2-stepanyuk-kirschning-2019.md:40",
    "quote": "In 1882 'Fougere Royale' was created, a composition of coumarin, oak moss, geranium and bergamot, commercially launched by Houbigant",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "the review names the materials; taking coumarin out is the house’s teaching choice, and the version is not a reconstruction of any perfume"
   },
   "regulations": [],
   "history": [
    "perkin-coumarin-1868"
   ],
   "fragrances": [],
   "components": [
    {
     "material": "bergamot-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 25,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "material": "lavender-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 40,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "name": "geranium oil (no Material record yet)",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 20,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "material": "oakmoss-absolute",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 15,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    }
   ]
  }
 ]
}