{"license":"https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/","about":"The input of the Olfactory Causal Debugger for a teaching accord, read from the records named in each field; the model is /sections/causal-model.mjs (formulas in its header). Everything the model computes from it is modeled.","accord":"fougere-teaching-accord","name":"The fougère skeleton","version":2,"updated":"2026-09-30","disclaimer":"A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.","href":"/accord/fougere-teaching-accord","halfLife":{"top":1.5,"heart":6,"base":12,"ev":{"e":"modeled","n":"the site constants of the evaporation simulator on /science for limonene (its Top note), Hedione (Heart) and Ambroxan (Base); “chosen for the simulator and are not measurements”"}},"components":[{"key":"bergamot-essential-oil","id":"bergamot-essential-oil","type":"material","name":"bergamot essential oil","href":"/material/bergamot-essential-oil","onRecord":true,"parts":20,"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · teaching_parts"},"role":"top","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · role"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · volatility"},"desc":["fresh","citrus"],"descEv":{"e":"documented","s":["PDO-1"],"q":"odore: caratteristico, gradevole, fresco, richiamante quello del pericarpo del Bergamotto;","c":"A","n":"the specification’s odour line, in English; colour “da verde a giallo verdastro”, green to greenish yellow (PDO-1)","r":"material/bergamot-essential-oil · descriptors","v":"characteristic, pleasant, fresh, recalling the bergamot’s peel"},"mols":[{"id":"limonene","name":"limonene","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["GC-3"],"q":"They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).","c":"B","n":"named by a review of the oil (a secondary witness; cited there to Mondello et al. 1998)","r":"material/bergamot-essential-oil · constituents"}},{"id":"linalyl-acetate","name":"linalyl acetate","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["GC-3"],"q":"They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).","c":"B","n":"named by the same review sentence as limonene; the page’s “principal molecule” for bergamot","r":"material/bergamot-essential-oil · constituents"}},{"id":"linalool","name":"linalool","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["GC-3"],"q":"They include monoterpene limonene (25–53%) and high quantities of oxygenated compounds, such as linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene (Mondello et al., 1998).","c":"B","n":"named by the same review sentence","r":"material/bergamot-essential-oil · constituents"}},{"id":"bergapten","name":"bergapten","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["GC-3"],"q":"The non-volatile fraction (4–7% of total) contains pigments, waxes, coumarins, and psoralens (such as 5-methoxypsoralen, also known as bergapten or 5-MOP, contained in about 0.2%), as well as bergamottine [5-geranyloxypsoralen]) (Dugo et al., 2000).","c":"B","n":"a psoralen of the oil’s non-volatile fraction (5-methoxypsoralen); cited there to Dugo et al. 2000","r":"material/bergamot-essential-oil · constituents"}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":["ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed","ifra-citrus-furocoumarins","eu-2023-1545"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":["IFRA-087","IFRA-089","EU-2023-1545"],"q":"CAS-No.: 8007-75-8 89957-91-5","c":"A","n":"the house’s review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not compliance advice)","r":"material/bergamot-essential-oil · regulation"},"prov":[{"t":"from Citrus bergamia Risso","href":"/botanical/citrus-bergamia","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["PDO-1"],"q":"La denominazione di origine protetta \" Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - olio essenziale\" è riservata esclusivamente all'olio essenziale estratto con il metodo cold pressed dal frutto Citrus Bergamia Risso nelle varietà Femminello, Castagnaro e Fantastico, prodotti negli impianti iscritti nel corrispondente albo dei bergamotteti che sarà tenuto presso l'organismo di controllo.","c":"A","r":"material/bergamot-essential-oil · botanical"}},{"t":"grown in Calabria","href":"/origin/calabria-it","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["PDO-1"],"q":"La zona di produzione della denominazione di origine protetta \"Bergamotto di Reggio Calabria - olio essenziale\", comprende l'area vogata della provincia di Regione Calabria, comprendente i seguenti comuni: Scilla, Villa San Giovanni, Campo Calabro, Fiumara","c":"A","n":"the PDO zone: comuni of the province of Reggio Calabria","r":"botanical/citrus-bergamia · origins"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale and raw-material prices are left out until the sourcing phase (the decisions log)","r":"material/bergamot-essential-oil · price_band"}}]},{"key":"lavender-essential-oil","id":"lavender-essential-oil","type":"material","name":"lavender essential oil","href":"/material/lavender-essential-oil","onRecord":true,"parts":30,"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · teaching_parts"},"role":"heart","roleEv":{"e":"documented","s":["KLE-1"],"q":"Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes","c":"A","n":"the review names lavender among the floral heart notes","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · role"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for lavender-essential-oil","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · volatility"},"desc":[],"descEv":{"n":"no descriptor on record for the oil; the essay’s “refined, slightly sweet” is given to linalyl acetate","r":"material/lavender-essential-oil · descriptors"},"mols":[{"id":"linalool","name":"linalool","ev":{"e":"perfumery convention","w":[{"t":"/materials, “Aquilaria malaccensis”","h":"/materials#origin-oud"}],"c":"B","n":"the page’s essay names linalool beside linalyl acetate as fine lavender’s pair; no analysis or specification of the oil is filed (the AOP/ISO specification would be the source), so this stays the trade’s convention","r":"material/lavender-essential-oil · constituents"}},{"id":"linalyl-acetate","name":"linalyl acetate","ev":{"e":"perfumery convention","w":[{"t":"/materials, “Aquilaria malaccensis”","h":"/materials#origin-oud"}],"c":"B","n":"as linalool: named in the page’s essay, no filed analysis","r":"material/lavender-essential-oil · constituents"}},{"id":"alpha-terpineol","name":"α-terpineol","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["HV-4"],"q":"Elle est aussi mise à pré-faner afin d’obtenir une huile essentielle moins riche en alpha-terpinéol, et donc de meilleure qualité.","c":"B","n":"HV-4 records the growers’ practice: the cut lavender is pre-wilted so the oil is less rich in α-terpineol. Named, not measured","r":"material/lavender-essential-oil · constituents"}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":["eu-2023-1545"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":["EU-2023-1545"],"q":"Lavandula angustifolia oil/extract (*4) Lavandula Angustifolia Oil;","c":"A","n":"the house’s review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not compliance advice)","r":"material/lavender-essential-oil · regulation"},"prov":[{"t":"from Lavandula angustifolia Mill.","href":"/botanical/lavandula-angustifolia","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["HV-4"],"q":"La lavande fine est cultivée en altitude, au-dessus de 800 m dans le périmètre de l’AOC créée en 1981.","c":"B","n":"the Argens section of HV-4: fine lavender grown at altitude and distilled on the farm; the fiche’s « lavande » is generic elsewhere","r":"material/lavender-essential-oil · botanical"}},{"t":"grown in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence","href":"/origin/alpes-de-haute-provence-fr","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["HV-4"],"q":"La lavande fine est cultivée en altitude, au-dessus de 800 m dans le périmètre de l’AOC créée en 1981.","c":"A","r":"botanical/lavandula-angustifolia · origins"}},{"t":"grown in Grasse","href":"/origin/grasse-fr","ev":{"e":"inferred","s":["HV-4"],"q":"En altitude, comme à Argens ou Castellane (Alpes-de-Haute-Provence) ou à Grasse (Alpes-Maritimes), la lavande est récoltée sur une période plus longue, du mois de juillet jusqu'à la mi-août.","c":"C","n":"the sentence says « la lavande », which the fiche uses generically (p. 2); which lavender grows at Grasse is not stated","r":"botanical/lavandula-angustifolia · origins"}},{"t":"The AOC for Haute-Provence lavender, 1981 (documented)","href":"/event/lavender-aoc-1981","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["HV-4"],"q":"Dans les années 1980, les cultivateurs de lavande fine se regroupèrent et créèrent une AOC « Lavande de Haute Provence », en 1981, afin de se démarquer et de faire reconnaître les propriétés de leurs produits.","c":"A","r":"event/lavender-aoc-1981 · what"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale and raw-material prices are left out until the sourcing phase (the decisions log); HV-4 quotes 2017 lavandin prices, not used","r":"material/lavender-essential-oil · price_band"}}]},{"key":"named-geranium-oil-no-material-record-yet","id":null,"type":null,"name":"geranium oil","href":null,"onRecord":false,"parts":15,"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · teaching_parts"},"role":"heart","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · role"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no record for this component, so no volatility class","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · volatility"},"desc":[],"descEv":null,"mols":[],"thr":null,"thrNote":"no record for this component","regs":[],"regEv":null,"prov":[{"t":"no record for this component yet: nothing about it is on record","ev":{"e":"house interpretation","n":"named by the accord record without a Material or Molecule record"}}]},{"key":"coumarin","id":"coumarin","type":"molecule","name":"coumarin","href":"/molecule/coumarin","onRecord":true,"parts":20,"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · teaching_parts"},"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · role"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for coumarin","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · volatility"},"desc":["sweet","spicy","hay"],"descEv":{"e":"documented","s":["KLE-1"],"q":"Coumarin (46) has a sweet, slightly spicy, and hay-like scent","c":"A","r":"molecule/coumarin · descriptors","v":"sweet, slightly spicy, hay-like"},"mols":[{"id":"coumarin","name":"coumarin"}],"molsNote":null,"thr":null,"thrNote":"no odour-threshold source on record","regs":["ifra-coumarin","eu-2009-1223"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":["IFRA-023","EU-2009-1223"],"q":"CAS-No.: 91-64-5","c":"A","n":"the house’s review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not compliance advice)","r":"molecule/coumarin · regulation"},"prov":[{"t":"Perkin reports a synthesis of coumarin, 1868 (documented)","href":"/event/perkin-coumarin-1868","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["KLE-1"],"q":"synthesis of coumarin by Perkin in 1868 was a breakthrough in the history of natural odorant synthesis","c":"A","r":"event/perkin-coumarin-1868 · what"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale; no price is filed for molecules"}}]},{"key":"oakmoss-absolute","id":"oakmoss-absolute","type":"material","name":"oakmoss absolute","href":"/material/oakmoss-absolute","onRecord":true,"parts":15,"partsEv":{"e":"modeled","c":"C","n":"teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · teaching_parts"},"role":"base","roleEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · role"},"vol":null,"volEv":{"n":"no volatility class on record for oakmoss-absolute","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · volatility"},"desc":["mossy"],"descEv":{"e":"perfumery convention","c":"B","n":"the trade’s word for the material; no filed source describes its smell","r":"material/oakmoss-absolute · descriptors","v":"mossy"},"mols":[{"id":"atranol","name":"2,6-Dihydroxy-4-Methylbenzaldehyde","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["EU-2017-1410"],"q":"The SCCS indicated in its opinion of 26-27 June 2012 that atranol and chloroatranol are natural components of oak tree moss (Evernia prunastri) and treemoss (Evernia furfuracea) extracts regulated in entry 91 and 92, respectively, of Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.","c":"A","r":"material/oakmoss-absolute · constituents"}},{"id":"chloroatranol","name":"3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["EU-2017-1410"],"q":"The SCCS indicated in its opinion of 26-27 June 2012 that atranol and chloroatranol are natural components of oak tree moss (Evernia prunastri) and treemoss (Evernia furfuracea) extracts regulated in entry 91 and 92, respectively, of Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.","c":"A","r":"material/oakmoss-absolute · constituents"}}],"molsNote":"no constituent share on record, so no figure","thr":null,"thrNote":"a material: thresholds are filed per molecule, not per material","regs":["ifra-oakmoss-extracts","eu-2009-1223","eu-2017-1410"],"regEv":{"e":"documented","s":["IFRA-067","EU-2009-1223","EU-2017-1410"],"q":"CAS-No.: 90028-68-5 68917-10-2 9000-50-4","c":"A","n":"the house’s review: the Regulation records that apply to it (educational summaries as of 2026-09-30; not compliance advice)","r":"material/oakmoss-absolute · regulation"},"prov":[{"t":"from Evernia prunastri (L.) 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Ach.","ev":{"e":null,"n":"the botanical record names no Origin record"}},{"t":"HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019 (documented)","href":"/event/eu-hicc-atranol-ban","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["EU-2017-1410"],"q":"From 23 August 2019 cosmetic products containing one or more of the substances prohibited by this Regulation shall not be placed on the Union market.","c":"A","r":"event/eu-hicc-atranol-ban · what"}},{"t":"no price: nothing on this site is for sale","ev":{"e":"house rule","n":"nothing on the site is for sale (the decisions log)","r":"material/oakmoss-absolute · price_band"}}]}],"extra":[],"subs":[],"notes":[{"for":"oakmoss-absolute","forName":"oakmoss absolute","text":"An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires.","ev":{"e":"inferred","s":["IFRA-067"],"q":"Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.","c":"B","n":"inferred from the standard; no filed source names a commercial substitute","r":"accord/fougere-teaching-accord · substitutions"},"why":"the record names no substitute record, so the chain is not computed"}],"regs":{"eu-2009-1223":{"name":"Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products","body":"EU","kind":"a labelling condition (Annex III): named in the list of ingredients above a stated concentration; and prohibitions (Annex II)","href":"/regulation/eu-2009-1223","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["EU-2009-1223"],"q":"The presence of the substance must be indicated in the list of ingredients referred to in Article 19(1)(g) when its concentration exceeds: — 0,001 % in leave-on products — 0,01 % in rinse-off products","c":"A","r":"regulation/eu-2009-1223 · restriction_type"}},"eu-2017-1410":{"name":"Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)","body":"EU","kind":"a prohibition (Annex II)","href":"/regulation/eu-2017-1410","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["EU-2017-1410"],"q":"From 23 August 2019 cosmetic products containing one or more of the substances prohibited by this Regulation shall not be placed on the Union market.","c":"A","r":"regulation/eu-2017-1410 · restriction_type"}},"eu-2023-1545":{"name":"Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)","body":"EU","kind":"a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens","href":"/regulation/eu-2023-1545","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["EU-2023-1545"],"q":"Therefore, an obligation to individually label those fragrance allergens should be introduced in Annex III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 when their concentration exceeds 0,001 % in leave-on products and 0,01 % in rinse-off products.","c":"A","r":"regulation/eu-2023-1545 · restriction_type"}},"ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION","href":"/regulation/ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["IFRA-087"],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE CONCENTRATIONS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT (%)","c":"A","r":"regulation/ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed · restriction_type"}},"ifra-citrus-furocoumarins":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION","href":"/regulation/ifra-citrus-furocoumarins","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["IFRA-089"],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE CONCENTRATIONS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT (%)","c":"A","r":"regulation/ifra-citrus-furocoumarins · restriction_type"}},"ifra-coumarin":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Coumarin","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION","href":"/regulation/ifra-coumarin","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["IFRA-023"],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION MAXIMUM ACCEPTABLE CONCENTRATIONS IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT (%)","c":"A","r":"regulation/ifra-coumarin · restriction_type"}},"ifra-oakmoss-extracts":{"name":"IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts","body":"IFRA","kind":"RESTRICTION / SPECIFICATION","href":"/regulation/ifra-oakmoss-extracts","ev":{"e":"documented","s":["IFRA-067"],"q":"RECOMMENDATION: RESTRICTION / SPECIFICATION","c":"A","r":"regulation/ifra-oakmoss-extracts · restriction_type"}}}}