The evidence register · Landmarks and Reformulations
Landmarks and Reformulations: the evidence
The claims Landmarks and Reformulations makes, as it makes them today: 12 sourced, 5 labeled for what they are, 10 unsourced.
About 2 minutes of reading
The whole register · the page itself
Reformulation Tracker
- sourced Mitsouko: Guerlain (1919) · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums
- unsourced Dior Homme Original: Dior (2005)
- unsourced Aventus: Creed (2010)
- sourced Shalimar: Guerlain (1925) · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums
- sourced Cool Water: Davidoff (1988) · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums
- sourced Jicky: Guerlain (1889) · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums
- sourced Chanel (1921) · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums
- sourced Built on natural oakmoss at doses the IFRA Standard on oakmoss extracts now restricts (the industry’s own rules, not law in the US), with real civet adding the animalic depth. · International Fragrance Association (IFRA)
- sourced The formula has been remarkably stable — its main synthetics (coumarin, linalool, vanillin) are not prohibited; coumarin is limited by an IFRA Standard (the industry’s own rules, not law in the US), and EU law has coumarin and linalool named on the label… · International Fragrance Association (IFRA)
Vintage vs Modern
- unsourced Christian Dior · 1947 vs 2024
- house interpretation What exactly changed between the vintage and the modern bottle? Breakdowns of specific fragrances — batch hints, note changes and the house’s verdict, as opinion.
- unsourced Full-lead crystal with a fire-polished surface
- house interpretation Miss Dior (Chypre) Christian Dior · 1947 vs 2024
- sourced Founded in Lorraine in 1764, Baccarat was making perfume bottles by the late nineteenth century, as one in the Art Institute of Chicago shows. · Art Institute of Chicago public API, artwork records read 2026-09-30
Failed Masterpieces
- unsourced Shiseido quietly discontinued it in 1990.
- sourced Dior · 1984 · Edmond Roudnitska · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums
- unsourced The public wanted lighter, fresher fragrances in 1984.
- sourced Shiseido · 1992 · Serge Lutens & Christopher Sheldrake · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums
- unsourced A feminine built on cedar, unusual in 1992.
- unsourced Etat Libre d’Orange · 2006–07 · Antoine Lie
Reformulation Secrets
- sourced The IFRA Standards are industry self-regulation rather than law, but in practice most of the market follows them. · International Fragrance Association (IFRA)
- house interpretation A perfumer reformulating to IFRA standards can lose much of the original formula’s character.
- house interpretation Some fragrances died with their original formulas.
Landmark Fragrances
- unsourced Art Deco minimalist design (1924)
- unsourced Blue fan stopper (1925)
- house interpretation Beaux’s use of synthetic aldehydes at a high dose for the time created an abstract, almost architectural floral that smelled like nothing in nature.
House DNA Signatures
- sourced Present since Jicky (1889). (from the record) · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums
from the house’s claims register and the records, checked against the pages’ own words when the site was built
