Station 8 of 13 · Accord · a tool

The Olfactory Genome

Every teaching accord drawn as a fingerprint of the records: descriptor families, volatility, structure. Compare any two. A picture of what is filed, never a prediction.

An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model Each teaching accord drawn as a fingerprint: the share of the accord on each descriptor family, its volatility and its structure, summed from the records. Nothing is learned or predicted.

The comparison view needs JavaScript, which is off or has not loaded. Every fingerprint below is drawn without it, with its vector as a table.

How a fingerprint is made

  1. Components and shares. A teaching accord’s components with their modeled teaching parts, made to sum to one. The teaching accords are the house’s, for learning: not a recipe, not for skin, never Radler’s own compositions.
  2. Words. Each component’s words are the odour descriptors its record links. A material whose record files no words takes its constituents’ words, marked “via”. A component with no words keeps its share apart, as “no words on record”.
  3. Families. A component’s share is split evenly over its words, and each word counts on its family axis (the descriptor record’s family, after the published classifications). Words filed as “a quality, not a family” (fresh, sweet, soapy and others) go to the qualities line.
  4. Volatility and structure. The shares by volatility class, read as the Sillage Lab reads them (modeled); the count of components, molecules and materials; the regulation records the accord names (IFRA Standards are the industry’s own standards and are not law in the US; EU rules apply in the EU; each record names its jurisdiction); the historical fragrances it is linked to.
  5. Resemblance. The cosine of two family vectors, from 0 (no family in common) to 1 (the same proportions). Read as close (0.8 or more), related (0.5), distant (0.2) or unrelated.
  6. What it is not. An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model. It predicts nothing about how a perfume smells; it shows, in one picture, what the records file about an accord. Change a record and the fingerprint changes with it. Other approaches map molecules to odour from data at scale; this is not one of them.

The teaching accords

An amber

amber (the Osmothèque’s "Ambré") · 3 components (1 molecule, 2 materials)

An amber: the share of the teaching accord on each descriptor family. An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model.citrusaromaticherbalgreenfruityfloralspicybalsamicamberwoodmuskanimalicaldehydic35 %70 %

Volatility (modeled)

Volatility: 0 per cent top, 20 per cent heart, 80 per cent base (modeled)heart 20base 80

Qualities sweet 0.17

Structure names Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) · linked to L'Origan, L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar, Tabu (history, not composition)

The vector as a table
The vector behind the wheel: the share on each family axis and the components that put it there. Modeled teaching shares; words as filed on the records.
Family axisShareFrom
citrus0.07frankincense (lemony)
aromatic0nothing on record
herbaceous/herbal0nothing on record
green0nothing on record
fruity0nothing on record
floral0nothing on record
spicy0nothing on record
balsamic0.53labdanum absolute (balsamic); vanillin (vanilla); frankincense (piney); frankincense (balsamic)
amber0.23labdanum absolute (amber)
wood0nothing on record
musk0nothing on record
moss/leather/animalic0nothing on record
aldehydic0nothing on record
qualities (not families)0.17sweet 0.17
no words on record0.00–

The chypre skeleton

chypre (the Osmothèque’s "Chypré") · 3 components (0 molecules, 3 materials)

The chypre skeleton: the share of the teaching accord on each descriptor family. An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model.citrusaromaticherbalgreenfruityfloralspicybalsamicamberwoodmuskanimalicaldehydic35 %70 %

Volatility (modeled)

Volatility: 50 per cent top, 0 per cent heart, 50 per cent base (modeled)top 50base 50

Qualities fresh 0.25

Structure names IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts, IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed, IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited), Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) · linked to Le Chypre, Mitsouko, Miss Dior (history, not composition)

The vector as a table
The vector behind the wheel: the share on each family axis and the components that put it there. Modeled teaching shares; words as filed on the records.
Family axisShareFrom
citrus0.25bergamot essential oil (citrus)
aromatic0nothing on record
herbaceous/herbal0nothing on record
green0nothing on record
fruity0nothing on record
floral0nothing on record
spicy0nothing on record
balsamic0.15labdanum absolute (balsamic)
amber0.15labdanum absolute (amber)
wood0nothing on record
musk0nothing on record
moss/leather/animalic0.20oakmoss absolute (mossy)
aldehydic0nothing on record
qualities (not families)0.25fresh 0.25
no words on record0.00–

A cologne

citrus (the Osmothèque’s "Hespéridé") · 5 components (3 molecules, 2 materials)

A cologne: the share of the teaching accord on each descriptor family. An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model.citrusaromaticherbalgreenfruityfloralspicybalsamicamberwoodmuskanimalicaldehydic35 %70 %

Volatility (modeled)

Volatility: 70 per cent top, 30 per cent heart, 0 per cent base (modeled)top 70heart 30

Qualities fresh 0.28 · refined 0.08 · sweet 0.08 · sharp 0.08 · medicinal 0.08 · bright 0.05 · uplifting 0.05

Structure names IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed, IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) · linked to Eau de Cologne Impériale, Eau Sauvage (history, not composition)

The vector as a table
The vector behind the wheel: the share on each family axis and the components that put it there. Modeled teaching shares; words as filed on the records.
Family axisShareFrom
citrus0.26bergamot essential oil (citrus); lavender essential oil (citrus)
aromatic0nothing on record
herbaceous/herbal0nothing on record
green0nothing on record
fruity0nothing on record
floral0.03lavender essential oil (floral)
spicy0nothing on record
balsamic0nothing on record
amber0nothing on record
wood0nothing on record
musk0nothing on record
moss/leather/animalic0nothing on record
aldehydic0nothing on record
qualities (not families)0.71fresh 0.28; bright 0.05; uplifting 0.05; refined 0.08; sweet 0.08; sharp 0.08; medicinal 0.08
no words on record0.00–

The fougère skeleton

fougère (the Osmothèque’s "Fougère") · 5 components (1 molecule, 3 materials, 1 not on record)

The fougère skeleton: the share of the teaching accord on each descriptor family. An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model.citrusaromaticherbalgreenfruityfloralspicybalsamicamberwoodmuskanimalicaldehydic35 %70 %

Volatility (modeled)

Volatility: 20 per cent top, 45 per cent heart, 35 per cent base (modeled)top 20heart 45base 35

Qualities sweet 0.12 · fresh 0.10 · sharp 0.05 · medicinal 0.05 · refined 0.05 · no words on record: 0.15

Structure names IFRA Standard: Coumarin, IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts, IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed, IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited), Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) · linked to Fougère Royale, Jicky (history, not composition)

The vector as a table
The vector behind the wheel: the share on each family axis and the components that put it there. Modeled teaching shares; words as filed on the records.
Family axisShareFrom
citrus0.15bergamot essential oil (citrus); lavender essential oil (citrus)
aromatic0.07Coumarin (hay)
herbaceous/herbal0nothing on record
green0nothing on record
fruity0nothing on record
floral0.05lavender essential oil (floral)
spicy0.07Coumarin (spicy)
balsamic0nothing on record
amber0nothing on record
wood0nothing on record
musk0nothing on record
moss/leather/animalic0.15oakmoss absolute (mossy)
aldehydic0nothing on record
qualities (not families)0.37fresh 0.10; sharp 0.05; medicinal 0.05; refined 0.05; sweet 0.12
no words on record0.15components whose records file no words

A muguet

floral (the Osmothèque’s "Solinote Muguet") · 5 components (5 molecules, 0 materials)

A muguet: the share of the teaching accord on each descriptor family. An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model.citrusaromaticherbalgreenfruityfloralspicybalsamicamberwoodmuskanimalicaldehydic35 %70 %

Volatility (modeled)

Volatility: 15 per cent top, 85 per cent heart, 0 per cent base (modeled)top 15heart 85

Qualities sweet 0.10 · honey 0.10 · sharp 0.07 · medicinal 0.07 · no words on record: 0.45

Structure names IFRA Standard: p-tert-Butyl-α-methylhydrocinnamic aldehyde (p-BMHCA), IFRA Standard: Hydroxycitronellal, IFRA Standard: 3 and 4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexene-1-carboxaldehyde (HMPCC), Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited), Regulation (EU) 2021/1902 (substances classified CMR, butylphenyl methylpropional among them) · linked to Diorissimo (history, not composition)

The vector as a table
The vector behind the wheel: the share on each family axis and the components that put it there. Modeled teaching shares; words as filed on the records.
Family axisShareFrom
citrus0nothing on record
aromatic0nothing on record
herbaceous/herbal0nothing on record
green0nothing on record
fruity0nothing on record
floral0.20butylphenyl methylpropional (lily); 2-phenylethyl alcohol (floral)
spicy0nothing on record
balsamic0nothing on record
amber0nothing on record
wood0nothing on record
musk0nothing on record
moss/leather/animalic0nothing on record
aldehydic0nothing on record
qualities (not families)0.35sweet 0.10; honey 0.10; sharp 0.07; medicinal 0.07
no words on record0.45components whose records file no words

A rose, from four molecules

floral (rose) · 4 components (4 molecules, 0 materials, 1 trace)

A rose, from four molecules: the share of the teaching accord on each descriptor family. An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model.citrusaromaticherbalgreenfruityfloralspicybalsamicamberwoodmuskanimalicaldehydic35 %70 %

Volatility (modeled)

Volatility: 0 per cent top, 100 per cent heart, 0 per cent base (modeled)heart 100

Qualities honey 0.23 · soapy 0.15

Structure names IFRA Standard: Rose ketones, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)

The vector as a table
The vector behind the wheel: the share on each family axis and the components that put it there. Modeled teaching shares; words as filed on the records.
Family axisShareFrom
citrus0.12geraniol (citrus)
aromatic0nothing on record
herbaceous/herbal0nothing on record
green0nothing on record
fruity0.00β-damascenone (fruity); β-damascenone (jammy)
floral0.502-phenylethyl alcohol (floral); citronellol (rose); geraniol (rose); β-damascenone (rose)
spicy0nothing on record
balsamic0nothing on record
amber0nothing on record
wood0nothing on record
musk0nothing on record
moss/leather/animalic0nothing on record
aldehydic0nothing on record
qualities (not families)0.38honey 0.23; soapy 0.15
no words on record0.00–

A white floral, indolic

floral (white flowers) · 4 components (3 molecules, 1 material, 1 trace)

A white floral, indolic: the share of the teaching accord on each descriptor family. An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model.citrusaromaticherbalgreenfruityfloralspicybalsamicamberwoodmuskanimalicaldehydic35 %70 %

Volatility (modeled)

Volatility: 0 per cent top, 100 per cent heart, 0 per cent base (modeled)heart 100

Qualities fresh 0.07

Structure names Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)

The vector as a table
The vector behind the wheel: the share on each family axis and the components that put it there. Modeled teaching shares; words as filed on the records.
Family axisShareFrom
citrus0.07methyl dihydrojasmonate (citrus)
aromatic0nothing on record
herbaceous/herbal0nothing on record
green0nothing on record
fruity0nothing on record
floral0.69jasmine absolute (floral); jasmine absolute (narcotic); Benzyl acetate (jasmine); methyl dihydrojasmonate (floral); indole (narcotic)
spicy0nothing on record
balsamic0nothing on record
amber0nothing on record
wood0nothing on record
musk0nothing on record
moss/leather/animalic0.17jasmine absolute (animalic); indole (fecal)
aldehydic0nothing on record
qualities (not families)0.07fresh 0.07
no words on record0.00–

A woody-ambery

wood · 3 components (1 molecule, 2 materials)

A woody-ambery: the share of the teaching accord on each descriptor family. An interpretable fingerprint — not a predictive model.citrusaromaticherbalgreenfruityfloralspicybalsamicamberwoodmuskanimalicaldehydic35 %70 %

Volatility (modeled)

Volatility: 0 per cent top, 55 per cent heart, 45 per cent base (modeled)heart 55base 45

Qualities sweet 0.08

Structure names Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)

The vector as a table
The vector behind the wheel: the share on each family axis and the components that put it there. Modeled teaching shares; words as filed on the records.
Family axisShareFrom
citrus0.11Iso E Super (lemony)
aromatic0nothing on record
herbaceous/herbal0nothing on record
green0nothing on record
fruity0nothing on record
floral0.22Iso E Super (floral); Iso E Super (violet)
spicy0nothing on record
balsamic0nothing on record
amber0.11Iso E Super (ambergris)
wood0.48Iso E Super (woody); sandalwood oil (creamy); sandalwood oil (milky); vetiver oil (smoky); vetiver oil (rooty)
musk0nothing on record
moss/leather/animalic0nothing on record
aldehydic0nothing on record
qualities (not families)0.08sweet 0.08
no words on record0.00–

The historical fragrances

A historical fragrance record holds no composition beyond what a filed source names, and no proportions. Its fingerprint is therefore short: the family it is classified in, its year and house, and any material a source names. Where a source names materials with words on record, they are compared above with equal weights. The teaching accord of its family is the house’s, offered for learning; it is not the fragrance’s composition.

The historical fragrance records by year, 1850 to 1980, each on its family line (the table below holds the same).1850187018901910193019501970Eau de Cologne ImpérialeFougère RoyaleJickyL'OriganL'Heure BleueNarcisse NoirLe ChypreMitsoukoTabac BlondChanel No. 5ShalimarArpègeJoyTabuPour un Homme de CaronMiss DiorVent VertDiorissimoEau SauvageCinnabar
The historical fragrance records: what the records hold. Names are trademarks of their owners; Radler Parfums is not affiliated with them and names them for history and education.
FragranceHouse, yearFamily as classifiedNamed in a sourceIts family’s teaching accord
Eau de Cologne ImpérialeGuerlain, 1853Hespéridé (perfumery convention)no composition on recordA cologne (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
Fougère RoyaleHoubigant, 1882Fougère / Fougère (perfumery convention)Coumarin (sweet, spicy, hay), oakmoss absolute (mossy), bergamot essential oil (fresh, citrus)The fougère skeleton (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
JickyGuerlain, 1889Fougère / Fougère (perfumery convention)no composition on recordThe fougère skeleton (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
L'OriganCoty, 1905Ambré / Fleuri Épicé (perfumery convention)no composition on recordAn amber (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
L'Heure BleueGuerlain, 1912Ambré / Fleuri Épicé (perfumery convention)no composition on recordAn amber (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
Narcisse NoirCaron, 1912Floral / Solinote Narcisse (perfumery convention)no composition on record–
Le ChypreCoty, 1917Chypré (perfumery convention)no composition on recordThe chypre skeleton (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
MitsoukoGuerlain, 1919Chypré / Fruité (perfumery convention)no composition on recordThe chypre skeleton (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
Tabac BlondCaron, 1919Cuir / Cuiré (perfumery convention)no composition on record–
Chanel No. 5Chanel, 1921Floral / Aldéhydé (perfumery convention)no composition on record–
ShalimarGuerlain, 1925Ambré / Ambré Doux (perfumery convention)no composition on recordAn amber (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
ArpègeLanvin, 1927Floral / Aldéhydé (perfumery convention)no composition on record–
JoyJean Patou, 1931Floral / Bouquet Floral (perfumery convention)no composition on record–
TabuDana, 1931Ambré / Ambré Doux (perfumery convention)no composition on recordAn amber (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
Pour un Homme de CaronCaron, 1934Floral / lavande (perfumery convention)no composition on record–
Miss DiorDior, 1947Chypré / Vert (perfumery convention)no composition on recordThe chypre skeleton (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
Vent VertBalmain, 1947Floral / Vert (perfumery convention)no composition on record–
DiorissimoDior, 1956Floral / Solinote Muguet (perfumery convention)no composition on recordA muguet (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
Eau SauvageDior, 1966Hespéridé / Fleuri Chypré (perfumery convention)no composition on recordA cologne (the house’s teaching accord, not its composition)
CinnabarEstée Lauder, 1978Ambré / Semi-Ambré-Fleuri (perfumery convention)no composition on record–

This page’s data is published under CC BY 4.0: /data/labs/genome.json.

version 1 · updated 2026-09-30