The recordsAll teaching accords
Station 8 of 13 · Accord · the record
The chypre skeleton
The chypre skeleton: bergamot over labdanum and oakmoss.
Teaching accord A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.
It is the frame the chypre family is built on. The oakmoss is the part that regulation changed, so it is the part to study.
The record
Each field carries its evidence: open a chip for the source, the quoted words and the confidence. A field with nothing behind it says so and stays empty.
- Name
- The chypre skeleton
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the house’s name for this teaching accord
confidence C
- Purpose
- teaching
house rule
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the site’s rule: every accord on record is a teaching accord; the house’s own formulas never enter the repository (brief §12.7)
confidence B
- Structure
- The chypre skeleton: a citrus top (bergamot) over a resinous, mossy base (labdanum and oakmoss).
perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
no filed source spells out the three materials; they are the trade’s convention. The Osmothèque classes Le Chypre (Coty, 1917), Mitsouko and Miss Dior in the chypre family (OSMO-1)
confidence B
- Family
- chypre (the Osmothèque’s "Chypré")
perfumery convention
Chypre (Le) 1° Édition COTY 1917 EXT Chypré François Coty
OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums · read 2026-09-30
the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure
confidence B
- Components
Under each component, the evidence for its place in the accord. Teaching parts are a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula. Component Role Teaching parts Volatility Bergamot essential oil perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention
confidence B
top perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
50 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil
Labdanum absolute documented
the extraction of its exuded resin (which has the commercial name of labdanum “gum”) for the fragrance/perfumery industry, because of its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris
LAB-1 · Frazão DF, et al · read 2026-09-30
confidence A
base perfumery convention
Notably, there are odorants (in particular amber notes) which are base notes serving as fixatives but also enhancing the perceptibility of a perfume
KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P · read 2026-09-30
the review: amber notes are base notes serving as fixatives; labdanum as an amber note is the trade’s convention
confidence B
30 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for labdanum-absolute
Oakmoss absolute perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention; oakmoss is now restricted (IFRA) and its atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics
confidence B
base perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
20 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for oakmoss-absolute
- Substitutions
- For oakmoss absolute (oak moss extract): An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires; EU law prohibits the two in cosmetic products.
inferred
Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.
IFRA-067 · International Fragrance Association (IFRA) · read 2026-09-30
EU-2017-1410 · Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regul · read 2026-09-30inferred from the standard and the regulation; no filed source names a commercial substitute
confidence B
- For oakmoss absolute (oak moss extract): An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires; EU law prohibits the two in cosmetic products.
- Regulations that apply to a component
- IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts
- IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed
- IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products
- Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)
- Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)
- In history
Causal Debugger why did this change matter?
Teaching accord · modeled A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin. Everything below is computed by a teaching model from the records: modeled, not measured, and not a prediction of how any real perfume smells. Regulation lines are flags, not compliance advice.
Change one thing and follow it down the chain: the proportions, the molecules, the words on record, a modeled reading, the dry-down, odour activity where a threshold is measured, the regulations, the provenance. Then: why it mattered.
Modeled · before → after
Choose one component and one change: each layer of the chain appears here, labelled modeled, each input with its evidence.
What happens if… every single change, worked out
The same model, run when this page was built. Figures are modeled: parts, and shares per 100 parts; odour space is the share of the accord whose components carry each word; the dry-down uses the half-lives top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h (the simulator’s site constants, not measurements); odour activity is share ÷ measured threshold, compared within one medium and unit, never across (a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord). This teaching accord is not a finished product and is not assessed. Nothing is for sale.
Double bergamot essential oil (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- bergamot essential oil 50 → 100 parts (50.0 → 66.7 per 100); the others ×0.67.
- 2 · Molecules
- with bergamot essential oil rise limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “citrus” 50.0 → 66.7, “fresh” 50.0 → 66.7, “amber” 30.0 → 20.0, “balsamic” 30.0 → 20.0.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and less “amber” and “balsamic”, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 66.7 / 0.0 / 33.3; half gone at 3.6 h → 2.5 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 50.0 to 66.7 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.5 h instead of 3.6 h (bergamot essential oil is top, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “citrus” go from 50.0 to 66.7 per 100 parts, because bergamot essential oil carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove bergamot essential oil
- 1 · Composition
- bergamot essential oil 50 → 0 parts (50.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×2.00.
- 2 · Molecules
- with bergamot essential oil leave limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool and bergapten (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “citrus” 50.0 → 0.0, “fresh” 50.0 → 0.0, “amber” 30.0 → 60.0, “balsamic” 30.0 → 60.0.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “amber” and “balsamic” and no “citrus” and “fresh” left, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 0.0 / 0.0 / 100.0; half gone at 3.6 h → 12 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- bergamot essential oil: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- Flags leaving the accord: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens); IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed; IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: top-class components go from 50.0 to 0.0 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 12 h instead of 3.6 h (bergamot essential oil is top, from its role in the accord).
- It takes the “Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)” flag (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
- It takes the “IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed” flag (restriction) off the accord: it names bergamot essential oil and no other component.
Double labdanum absolute (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- labdanum absolute 30 → 60 parts (30.0 → 46.2 per 100); the others ×0.77.
- 2 · Molecules
- labdanum absolute rises, and no constituent molecule is on record for it.
- 3 · Odour space
- “amber” 30.0 → 46.2, “balsamic” 30.0 → 46.2, “citrus” 50.0 → 38.5, “fresh” 50.0 → 38.5.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “amber” and “balsamic” and less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 38.5 / 0.0 / 61.5; half gone at 3.6 h → 5.0 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- labdanum absolute: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 50.0 to 61.5 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 5.0 h instead of 3.6 h (labdanum absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “amber” go from 30.0 to 46.2 per 100 parts, because labdanum absolute carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove labdanum absolute
- 1 · Composition
- labdanum absolute 30 → 0 parts (30.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.43.
- 2 · Molecules
- labdanum absolute leaves, and no constituent molecule is on record for it.
- 3 · Odour space
- “amber” 30.0 → 0.0, “balsamic” 30.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 50.0 → 71.4, “fresh” 50.0 → 71.4.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and no “amber” and “balsamic” left, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 71.4 / 0.0 / 28.6; half gone at 3.6 h → 2.3 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- labdanum absolute: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- labdanum absolute carried “amber” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- labdanum absolute carried “balsamic” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 50.0 to 28.6 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 2.3 h instead of 3.6 h (labdanum absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
Double oakmoss absolute (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- oakmoss absolute 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
- 2 · Molecules
- with oakmoss absolute rise 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-Methylbenzaldehyde and 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “mossy” 20.0 → 33.3, “citrus” 50.0 → 41.7, “fresh” 50.0 → 41.7, “amber” 30.0 → 25.0.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “mossy” and less “citrus” and “fresh”, with less of it in the opening and more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 41.7 / 0.0 / 58.3; half gone at 3.6 h → 4.5 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- oakmoss absolute: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 50.0 to 58.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 4.5 h instead of 3.6 h (oakmoss absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “mossy” go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, because oakmoss absolute carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove oakmoss absolute
- 1 · Composition
- oakmoss absolute 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
- 2 · Molecules
- with oakmoss absolute leave 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-Methylbenzaldehyde and 3-Chloro-2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “mossy” 20.0 → 0.0, “citrus” 50.0 → 62.5, “fresh” 50.0 → 62.5, “amber” 30.0 → 37.5.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “citrus” and “fresh” and no “mossy” left, with more of it in the opening and less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 50.0 / 0.0 / 50.0 → 62.5 / 0.0 / 37.5; half gone at 3.6 h → 2.7 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- oakmoss absolute: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- Flags leaving the accord: Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products; Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited); IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts.
- Why did this change matter?
- It takes the “Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products” flag (a labelling condition (Annex III)) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.
- It takes the “Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited)” flag (a prohibition (Annex II)) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.
- It takes the “IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts” flag (restriction / specification) off the accord: it names oakmoss absolute and no other component.
Named by the record, not computed (no record for the substitute): oakmoss absolute: An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires; EU law prohibits the two in cosmetic products.
What the model reads, with its evidence
- bergamot essential oil
- descriptors: fresh, citrus· class: top (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Bergamot oil expressed (restriction); IFRA Standard: Citrus oils and other furocoumarins containing essential oils (restriction); Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: from Citrus bergamia Risso; grown in Calabria
documented
PDO-1 · listed on the record
field: material/bergamot-essential-oil · descriptors · in this repository: PDO-1
- labdanum absolute
- descriptors: balsamic, amber· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: none on record · provenance: from Cistus ladanifer L.; no origin on record for Cistus ladanifer L.; A resin in a Carthaginian tomb, identified as labdanum (6th–5th century BC) (probable)
perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
field: material/labdanum-absolute · descriptors
- oakmoss absolute
- descriptors: mossy· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts (restriction / specification); Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (a labelling condition (Annex III)); Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 (HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited) (a prohibition (Annex II)) · provenance: from Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.; no origin on record for Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.; HICC, atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics, 2019 (documented)
perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
field: material/oakmoss-absolute · descriptors
the model’s input as data: /data/causal/chypre-teaching-accord.json · the model and its formulas: the site’s build
Sources
- OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums. Collection Osmothèque, juin 2015 (PDF list: name, house, launch year, concentration, family, sub-family, perfumers). www.osmotheque.fr/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Col… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; quoted row by row, not filed
- KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P. Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2022;18:754–768. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
- LAB-1 · Frazão DF, et al. Labdanum Resin from Cistus ladanifer L. as a Source of Compounds with Anti-Diabetic, Neuroprotective and Anti-Proliferative Activity. Molecules. 2024;29(10):2222. doi.org/10.3390/molecules29102222 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
- IFRA-067 · International Fragrance Association (IFRA). IFRA Standard: Oakmoss extracts, Amendment 49 (2020). Geneva: IFRA Standards Library. d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFR… · read 2026-09-30 · published by IFRA; no reuse licence stated; quoted
- EU-2017-1410 · Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. OJ L 202, 3.8.2017, p. 1. eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2017/1410/oj · read 2026-09-30 · EU legislation; reuse terms not re-read (UNVERIFIED); quoted
These records are published under CC BY 4.0.
this record as data: /data/accord/chypre-teaching-accord.json · version 1 · updated 2026-09-30 · confidence B