{
 "license": "https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/",
 "id": "chypre-teaching-accord",
 "type": "Accord",
 "version": 2,
 "updated": "2026-09-30",
 "station": 8,
 "confidence": "B",
 "sources": [
  "OSMO-1",
  "KLE-1",
  "LAB-1",
  "IFRA-067",
  "EU-2017-1410"
 ],
 "name": {
  "value": "The chypre skeleton",
  "evidence": "house interpretation",
  "source": null,
  "where": null,
  "confidence": "C",
  "note": "the house’s name for this teaching accord"
 },
 "purpose": "teaching",
 "disclaimer": "A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.",
 "structure": {
  "value": "The chypre skeleton: a citrus top (bergamot) over a resinous, mossy base (labdanum and oakmoss).",
  "evidence": "perfumery convention",
  "source": null,
  "where": null,
  "confidence": "B",
  "note": "no filed source spells out the three materials; they are the trade’s convention. The Osmothèque classes Le Chypre (Coty, 1917), Mitsouko and Miss Dior in the chypre family (OSMO-1)"
 },
 "family": {
  "value": "chypre (the Osmothèque’s \"Chypré\")",
  "evidence": "perfumery convention",
  "source": "OSMO-1",
  "where": "docs/sources/OSMO-1-osmotheque-collection-2015.md:35",
  "quote": "Chypre (Le) 1° Édition COTY 1917 EXT Chypré François Coty",
  "confidence": "B",
  "note": "the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure"
 },
 "components": [
  {
   "material": "bergamot-essential-oil",
   "role": {
    "value": "top",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 50,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for bergamot-essential-oil"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "the citrus top of the chypre structure",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s convention"
   }
  },
  {
   "material": "labdanum-absolute",
   "role": {
    "value": "base",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": "KLE-1",
    "where": "docs/sources/KLE-1-kleoff-2022-odorants-in-flow.md:45",
    "quote": "Notably, there are odorants (in particular amber notes) which are base notes serving as fixatives but also enhancing the perceptibility of a perfume",
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the review: amber notes are base notes serving as fixatives; labdanum as an amber note is the trade’s convention"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 30,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for labdanum-absolute"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "the resinous base: labdanum is taken for perfumery for its aromatic and fixative properties",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "LAB-1",
    "where": "docs/sources/LAB-1-frazao-2024-labdanum-resin.md:15",
    "quote": "the extraction of its exuded resin (which has the commercial name of labdanum “gum”) for the fragrance/perfumery industry, because of its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris",
    "confidence": "A"
   }
  },
  {
   "material": "oakmoss-absolute",
   "role": {
    "value": "base",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 20,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for oakmoss-absolute"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "the mossy base of the chypre structure",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s convention; oakmoss is now restricted (IFRA) and its atranol and chloroatranol prohibited in EU cosmetics"
   }
  }
 ],
 "substitutions": [
  {
   "for": "oakmoss-absolute",
   "value": "An oakmoss extract low in atranol and chloroatranol, as IFRA’s specification requires; EU law prohibits the two in cosmetic products.",
   "evidence": "inferred",
   "source": "IFRA-067",
   "where": "docs/sources/IFRA-067-oakmoss-extracts.md:32",
   "quote": "Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.",
   "confidence": "B",
   "sources": [
    "EU-2017-1410"
   ],
   "note": "inferred from the standard and the regulation; no filed source names a commercial substitute"
  }
 ],
 "history": [
  "chypre-coty-launch-1917",
  "mitsouko-launch-1919",
  "miss-dior-launch-1947",
  "eu-hicc-atranol-ban"
 ],
 "fragrances": [
  "chypre-coty",
  "mitsouko",
  "miss-dior"
 ],
 "regulations": [
  "ifra-oakmoss-extracts",
  "ifra-bergamot-oil-expressed",
  "ifra-citrus-furocoumarins",
  "eu-2009-1223",
  "eu-2017-1410",
  "eu-2023-1545"
 ],
 "descriptors": [
  "fresh",
  "citrus",
  "balsamic",
  "amber",
  "mossy"
 ],
 "media": [],
 "links": {
  "essay": "/science#accord-building",
  "tool": "/atelier#accord-architect"
 },
 "copy": {
  "lede": "The chypre skeleton: bergamot over labdanum and oakmoss.",
  "body": [
   "It is the frame the chypre family is built on. The oakmoss is the part that regulation changed, so it is the part to study."
  ]
 },
 "teaching_variants": [
  {
   "id": "v1",
   "label": "Classic oakmoss",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "the record as written",
   "as_written": true,
   "why": {
    "value": "The skeleton as the record writes it: bergamot over labdanum and a full measure of oakmoss, as the trade has long described the chypre family.",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the accord record’s structure field (perfumery convention); the Osmothèque classes Le Chypre (Coty, 1917) in the chypre family, linked for context only"
   },
   "regulations": [],
   "history": [
    "chypre-coty-launch-1917"
   ],
   "fragrances": [
    "chypre-coty"
   ]
  },
  {
   "id": "v2",
   "label": "Less oakmoss, low in atranol",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "regulation on record",
   "why": {
    "value": "The oakmoss rules. An IFRA Standard (the industry’s own standard, not law; Amendment 49, 2020) restricts oakmoss extracts by concentration and specifies their atranol and chloroatranol. EU law (Regulation (EU) 2017/1410) prohibits atranol and chloroatranol in cosmetic products placed on the EU market from 23 August 2019. Less moss, of a low-atranol grade, is a house teaching example of a response.",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "IFRA-067",
    "where": "docs/sources/IFRA-067-oakmoss-extracts.md:29",
    "quote": "For Oakmoss and Treemoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products.",
    "sources": [
     "EU-2017-1410"
    ],
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the rules are documented (their Regulation records); the proportions and the response are the house’s, modeled. US law: not on record"
   },
   "regulations": [
    "ifra-oakmoss-extracts",
    "eu-2017-1410"
   ],
   "history": [
    "ifra-49th-amendment-2020",
    "eu-hicc-atranol-ban"
   ],
   "fragrances": [],
   "components": [
    {
     "material": "bergamot-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 50,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "material": "labdanum-absolute",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 38,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "material": "oakmoss-absolute",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 12,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     },
     "grade": {
      "value": "an oakmoss extract with atranol and chloroatranol each below the level the IFRA specification states",
      "evidence": "inferred",
      "source": "IFRA-067",
      "sources": [
       "EU-2017-1410"
      ],
      "where": "docs/sources/IFRA-067-oakmoss-extracts.md:32",
      "quote": "Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.",
      "confidence": "B",
      "note": "inferred from the standard and the EU regulation; no record holds such an extract separately, so the model reads the same oakmoss record for it"
     }
    }
   ]
  },
  {
   "id": "v3",
   "label": "No oakmoss, woods instead",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "house teaching example",
   "why": {
    "value": "A house teaching example: the skeleton with the oakmoss taken out and two woody materials put in its place (vetiver oil and Iso E Super, both on record), to show which words and flags leave with the moss and which arrive with the woods.",
    "evidence": "house interpretation",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "a house teaching example: no filed source documents this version, and it is not a reconstruction of any perfume"
   },
   "regulations": [],
   "history": [
    "iso-e-super-1972"
   ],
   "fragrances": [],
   "components": [
    {
     "material": "bergamot-essential-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 45,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "material": "labdanum-absolute",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 30,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "material": "vetiver-oil",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 15,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     },
     "role": {
      "value": "base",
      "evidence": "perfumery convention",
      "source": null,
      "where": null,
      "confidence": "B",
      "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material (as in the woody-ambery teaching accord)"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "iso-e-super",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 10,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     },
     "role": {
      "value": "heart",
      "evidence": "perfumery convention",
      "source": null,
      "where": null,
      "confidence": "B",
      "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material (as in the woody-ambery teaching accord)"
     }
    }
   ]
  }
 ]
}