The recordsAll teaching accords
Station 8 of 13 · Accord · the record
An amber (the perfumer’s, not the resin)
A perfumer’s amber: labdanum and vanillin, warm, sweet and resinous.
Teaching accord A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.
In perfumery "amber" names this accord, not the fossil resin. Both of its main materials are base notes: it lasts longest on the strip.
The record
Each field carries its evidence: open a chip for the source, the quoted words and the confidence. A field with nothing behind it says so and stays empty.
- Name
- An amber (the perfumer’s, not the resin)
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the house’s name for this teaching accord
confidence C
- Purpose
- teaching
house rule
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
the site’s rule: every accord on record is a teaching accord; the house’s own formulas never enter the repository (brief §12.7)
confidence B
- Structure
- A perfumer’s amber: labdanum and vanillin as a warm, sweet, resinous base, lifted by a balsamic resin.
perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention; the review on file says amber notes are base notes serving as fixatives (KLE-1), and labdanum is taken for perfumery for its fixative properties in place of ambergris (LAB-1)
confidence B
- Family
- amber (the Osmothèque’s "Ambré")
perfumery convention
Shalimar GUERLAIN 1925 EXT Ambré Ambré Doux Jacques Guerlain
OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums · read 2026-09-30
the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure
confidence B
- Components
Under each component, the evidence for its place in the accord. Teaching parts are a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula. Component Role Teaching parts Volatility Labdanum absolute documented
the extraction of its exuded resin (which has the commercial name of labdanum “gum”) for the fragrance/perfumery industry, because of its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris
LAB-1 · Frazão DF, et al · read 2026-09-30
confidence A
base perfumery convention
Notably, there are odorants (in particular amber notes) which are base notes serving as fixatives but also enhancing the perceptibility of a perfume
KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P · read 2026-09-30
the review: amber notes are base notes serving as fixatives; labdanum as an amber note is the trade’s convention
confidence B
45 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for labdanum-absolute
Vanillin perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s convention
confidence B
base documented
Typically, fresh and citric odorants, e.g., limonene, are top notes, while warm and sweet odorants such as vanillin are base notes
KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P · read 2026-09-30
the same sentence: "warm and sweet odorants such as vanillin are base notes"
confidence A
35 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
base modeled
modeled
the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: the simulator’s data is a set of site constants, not measurements)
confidence C
Frankincense perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the house’s choice among the balsamic resins on record
confidence C
heart perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material
confidence B
20 parts modeled
modeled
teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making
confidence C
not on record why
no volatility class on record for frankincense-resin
- Substitutions
- For labdanum absolute: Historically the other way round: labdanum stood in for ambergris.
documented
the extraction of its exuded resin (which has the commercial name of labdanum “gum”) for the fragrance/perfumery industry, because of its aromatic and fixative properties, replacing ambergris
LAB-1 · Frazão DF, et al · read 2026-09-30
confidence A
- For labdanum absolute: Historically the other way round: labdanum stood in for ambergris.
- Regulations that apply to a component
- In history
- Fragrances of this family
Causal Debugger why did this change matter?
Teaching accord · modeled A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin. Everything below is computed by a teaching model from the records: modeled, not measured, and not a prediction of how any real perfume smells. Regulation lines are flags, not compliance advice.
Change one thing and follow it down the chain: the proportions, the molecules, the words on record, a modeled reading, the dry-down, odour activity where a threshold is measured, the regulations, the provenance. Then: why it mattered.
Modeled · before → after
Choose one component and one change: each layer of the chain appears here, labelled modeled, each input with its evidence.
What happens if… every single change, worked out
The same model, run when this page was built. Figures are modeled: parts, and shares per 100 parts; odour space is the share of the accord whose components carry each word; the dry-down uses the half-lives top 1.5 h, heart 6 h, base 12 h (the simulator’s site constants, not measurements); odour activity is share ÷ measured threshold, compared within one medium and unit, never across (a teaching ratio, not a measurement of this accord). This teaching accord is not a finished product and is not assessed. Nothing is for sale.
Double labdanum absolute (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- labdanum absolute 45 → 90 parts (45.0 → 62.1 per 100); the others ×0.69.
- 2 · Molecules
- labdanum absolute rises, and no constituent molecule is on record for it.
- 3 · Odour space
- “amber” 45.0 → 62.1, “sweet” 35.0 → 24.1, “vanilla” 35.0 → 24.1, “balsamic” 65.0 → 75.9.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “amber” and “balsamic” and less “sweet” and “vanilla”, with more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 13.8 / 86.2; half gone at 10 h → 11 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- labdanum absolute: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “amber” go from 45.0 to 62.1 per 100 parts, because labdanum absolute carries it (its descriptors field).
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 80.0 to 86.2 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 11 h instead of 10 h (labdanum absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
Remove labdanum absolute
- 1 · Composition
- labdanum absolute 45 → 0 parts (45.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.82.
- 2 · Molecules
- labdanum absolute leaves, and no constituent molecule is on record for it.
- 3 · Odour space
- “amber” 45.0 → 0.0, “sweet” 35.0 → 63.6, “vanilla” 35.0 → 63.6, “balsamic” 65.0 → 36.4.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “sweet” and “vanilla”, less “balsamic” and no “amber” left, with less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 36.4 / 63.6; half gone at 10 h → 9.2 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- labdanum absolute: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- labdanum absolute carried “amber” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- Components carrying “sweet” go from 35.0 to 63.6 per 100 parts, because labdanum absolute, which does not carry it, now takes less of the accord.
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 80.0 to 63.6 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 9.2 h instead of 10 h (labdanum absolute is base, from its role in the accord).
Double vanillin (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- vanillin 35 → 70 parts (35.0 → 51.9 per 100); the others ×0.74.
- 2 · Molecules
- vanillin itself rises.
- 3 · Odour space
- “balsamic” 65.0 → 48.1, “sweet” 35.0 → 51.9, “vanilla” 35.0 → 51.9, “amber” 45.0 → 33.3.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “sweet” and “vanilla” and less “balsamic” and “amber”, with more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 14.8 / 85.2; half gone at 10 h → 11 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- vanillin (53 µg/kg in water, measured): ×1.48.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- Components carrying “balsamic” go from 65.0 to 48.1 per 100 parts, because vanillin, which does not carry it, now takes more of the accord.
- The modeled dry-down moves: base-class components go from 80.0 to 85.2 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 11 h instead of 10 h (vanillin is base, from its volatility class, modeled).
Remove vanillin
- 1 · Composition
- vanillin 35 → 0 parts (35.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.54.
- 2 · Molecules
- vanillin itself leaves.
- 3 · Odour space
- “balsamic” 65.0 → 100.0, “sweet” 35.0 → 0.0, “vanilla” 35.0 → 0.0, “amber” 45.0 → 69.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “balsamic” and “amber” and no “sweet” and “vanilla” left, with less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 30.8 / 69.2; half gone at 10 h → 9.6 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- vanillin (53 µg/kg in water, measured): ×0.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- Flags leaving the accord: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens).
- Why did this change matter?
- It takes the “Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens)” flag (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) off the accord: it names vanillin and no other component.
- vanillin carried “sweet” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- vanillin carried “vanilla” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
Double frankincense (×2)
- 1 · Composition
- frankincense 20 → 40 parts (20.0 → 33.3 per 100); the others ×0.83.
- 2 · Molecules
- with frankincense rise incensole acetate (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “lemony” 20.0 → 33.3, “piney” 20.0 → 33.3, “amber” 45.0 → 37.5, “sweet” 35.0 → 29.2.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “lemony” and “piney” and less “amber” and “sweet”, with less of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 33.3 / 66.7; half gone at 10 h → 9.4 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- frankincense: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 9.4 h instead of 10 h (frankincense is heart, from its role in the accord).
- Components carrying “lemony” go from 20.0 to 33.3 per 100 parts, because frankincense carries it (its descriptors field).
Remove frankincense
- 1 · Composition
- frankincense 20 → 0 parts (20.0 → 0.0 per 100); the others ×1.25.
- 2 · Molecules
- with frankincense leave incensole acetate (no shares on record).
- 3 · Odour space
- “lemony” 20.0 → 0.0, “piney” 20.0 → 0.0, “amber” 45.0 → 56.3, “balsamic” 65.0 → 56.3.
- 4 · Perceived character
- A modeled reading, not a prediction: more “amber” and “sweet”, less “balsamic” and no “lemony” and “piney” left, with more of it in the base.
- 5 · Dry-down
- top / heart / base 0.0 / 20.0 / 80.0 → 0.0 / 0.0 / 100.0; half gone at 10 h → 12 h.
- 6 · Odour activity
- frankincense: no threshold on record.
- 7 · Regulation flags
- The accord’s flags do not change.
- Why did this change matter?
- frankincense carried “lemony” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- frankincense carried “piney” and no other component does on record, so the word leaves the modeled profile.
- The modeled dry-down moves: heart-class components go from 20.0 to 0.0 per 100 parts, and half the accord is gone at 12 h instead of 10 h (frankincense is heart, from its role in the accord).
Named by the record, not computed (no record for the substitute): labdanum absolute: Historically the other way round: labdanum stood in for ambergris.
What the model reads, with its evidence
- labdanum absolute
- descriptors: balsamic, amber· class: base (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: none on record · provenance: from Cistus ladanifer L.; no origin on record for Cistus ladanifer L.; A resin in a Carthaginian tomb, identified as labdanum (6th–5th century BC) (probable)
perfumery convention
the trade’s shared vocabulary; no single source
field: material/labdanum-absolute · descriptors
- vanillin
- descriptors: vanilla, sweet· class: base (volatility, modeled) · threshold: 53 µg/kg in water
documented
OT-1 · listed on the record
field: molecule/vanillin · descriptors · in this repository: OT-1
· regulation: Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (labelling of fragrance allergens) (a labelling condition, extended to more fragrance allergens) · provenance: occurs in cured vanilla pods; Tiemann and Haarmann patent a vanillin synthesis, 1874 (documented)measured
OT-1 · listed on the record
field: molecule/vanillin · threshold · in this repository: OT-1
- frankincense
- descriptors: lemony, piney, balsamic· class: heart (role) · threshold: not on record · regulation: none on record · provenance: from Boswellia sacra Flück.; grown in Dhofar
house interpretation
the house’s own reading, labelled as such
field: material/frankincense-resin · descriptors · in this repository: /materials, “Omani Frankincense”
the model’s input as data: /data/causal/amber-teaching-accord.json · the model and its formulas: the site’s build
Sources
- OSMO-1 · Osmothèque, Conservatoire international des parfums. Collection Osmothèque, juin 2015 (PDF list: name, house, launch year, concentration, family, sub-family, perfumers). www.osmotheque.fr/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Col… · read 2026-09-30 · no reuse licence stated; quoted row by row, not filed
- KLE-1 · Kleoff M, Kiler P, Heretsch P. Synthesis of odorants in flow and their applications in perfumery. Beilstein J Org Chem. 2022;18:754–768. doi.org/10.3762/bjoc.18.76 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
- LAB-1 · Frazão DF, et al. Labdanum Resin from Cistus ladanifer L. as a Source of Compounds with Anti-Diabetic, Neuroprotective and Anti-Proliferative Activity. Molecules. 2024;29(10):2222. doi.org/10.3390/molecules29102222 · read 2026-09-30 · CC BY 4.0
These records are published under CC BY 4.0.
this record as data: /data/accord/amber-teaching-accord.json · version 1 · updated 2026-09-30 · confidence B