Radler Parfums — The evidence register: The Ten Materials

Rosa damascena

sourced Dominant Molecule β-Damascenone C₁₃H₁₈O · CAS 23696-85-7 (from the record) · PubChem Compound Summary for CID 5366074, beta-Damascenone
sourced The Rosa damascena is picked for twenty to thirty days from May in the Rose Valley of Bulgaria, near Kazanlak, between the Balkan and Sredna Gora mountain ranges. · Publication of an application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 (‘Българско розово масло’…
sourced Picking starts in the early morning and ends around noon, before the heat of the day. It takes an enormous weight of hand-picked petals to make a single kilogram of rose oil. · Publication of an application pursuant to Article 50(2)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 1151/2012 (‘Българско розово масло’…

sourced Key Molecule Indole C₈H₇N · CAS 120-72-9 (from the record) · PubChem Compound Summary for CID 798, Indole
sourced For oil the opened flowers are picked by hand early in the day — before 10 a.m., the Tamil Nadu crop guide says — and a great many of them go into a single gram of absolute. · Tamil Nadu Agricultural University (TNAU), TNAU Agritech Portal, “Horticulture :

sourced Key Molecule Linalool C₁₀H₁₈O · CAS 78-70-6 (from the record) · PubChem Compound Summary for CID 6549, Linalool
sourced Fine lavender is rarer and more expensive; lavandin gives almost three times as much essential oil as fine lavender, and a good deal of what is sold as “lavender” is lavandin. · Rosati-Marzetti C, anthropologist: “Les pratiques de culture des lavandes dans les Alpes-de-Haute-Provence”, Fiche…

sourced The fragrant heartwood takes decades to develop, and harvest in India is tightly regulated. The scarcity makes genuine Mysore sandalwood oil one of the costliest materials in perfumery. · Fatima et al. (2022). Comparative transcriptome profiling of high and low oil yielding Santalum album L.
sourced Mysore oil is rich in α-santalol, the source of its creaminess. · Diaz-Chavez et al. (2013). Biosynthesis of Sandalwood Oil: Santalum album CYP76F Cytochromes P450 Produce Santalols and Bergamotol
house interpretation The wood was sacred in Hindu and Buddhist tradition for millennia; carved sandalwood keeps its scent for a very long time.
sourced The heartwood of decades — a prized wood in perfumery, its creamy, milky sweetness hard to match with any synthetic or other species. · Diaz-Chavez et al. (2013). Biosynthesis of Sandalwood Oil: Santalum album CYP76F Cytochromes P450 Produce Santalols and Bergamotol

sourced Raw bergamot contains bergapten, a furanocoumarin that can make skin sensitive to sunlight — which is why perfumery generally uses bergapten-free (FCF) grades. · Navarra et al. (2015). Citrus bergamia essential oil: from basic research to clinical application

unsourced Vanillin is the dominant aromatic compound, but natural vanilla contains hundreds of compounds that give it depth synthetic vanillin cannot match.

sourced Vetiver is a tall, perennial grass native to India but cultivated worldwide. · Burger et al. (2017). Vetiver Essential Oil in Cosmetics: What Is New?
sourced Haiti is one of the leading producers of vetiver oil, and the crop supports a great many small farmers. · Burger et al. (2017). Vetiver Essential Oil in Cosmetics: What Is New?
sourced With about two hundred compounds on record, vetiver is a chemically complex natural material. · Barcellos-Silva et al. (2025). Vetiver, Vetiveria zizanioides (L.) Nash: Biotechnology, Biorefineries, and the Production of Volatile Phytochemicals
sourced Khusimol is among its most abundant alcohols, but the smell itself has been traced to a trace ketone, and the full orchestra creates the unmistakable character. · Ouyang et al. (2021). The Smelling Principle of Vetiver Oil, Unveiled by Chemical Synthesis

house interpretation The powdery elegance of orris root — among the costliest natural materials in perfumery.

sourced Laboratory studies in animals have reported effects of incensole acetate, a compound in the resin; what that means for people burning it is not established. · Moussaieff et al. (2008). Incensole acetate, an incense component, elicits psychoactivity by activating TRPV3 channels in the brain

perfumery convention Every fragrance unfolds in three stages: Top notes hit first (citrus, herbs) and fade first.
perfumery convention Base notes linger longest (woods, musks) — often for many hours.
house interpretation Synthetics are lab-created molecules — consistent from batch to batch. Safety depends on the material, not on where it came from.
perfumery convention Can range from a couple of hours (light citrus) to a full day or more (heavy ambers).
unsourced A foundation of the classic eau de cologne since the early eighteenth century.
unsourced The roots of this tropical grass are steam-distilled once the plant is well established.
house interpretation Hand-picked in India. Its scent was thought so heady that, the story goes, Victorian girls were warned away from it.
perfumery convention A foundation of the classic amber accord.

from the house’s claims register and the records, checked against the pages’ own words when the site was built