{
 "license": "https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/",
 "id": "muguet-teaching-accord",
 "type": "Accord",
 "version": 2,
 "updated": "2026-09-30",
 "station": 8,
 "confidence": "B",
 "sources": [
  "OSMO-1",
  "ENE-1",
  "KLE-1",
  "EU-2017-1410",
  "EU-2021-1902"
 ],
 "name": {
  "value": "A muguet (lily of the valley), and what regulation took from it",
  "evidence": "house interpretation",
  "source": null,
  "where": null,
  "confidence": "C",
  "note": "the house’s name for this teaching accord"
 },
 "purpose": "teaching",
 "disclaimer": "A teaching accord for learning: not a Radler formula, not a finished perfume, not safety-assessed; do not make it for skin.",
 "structure": {
  "value": "A muguet built from aldehydes and alcohols: the flower gives no oil, so the note is composed from synthetic materials.",
  "evidence": "perfumery convention",
  "source": null,
  "where": null,
  "confidence": "B",
  "note": "the trade’s convention; the Osmothèque classes Diorissimo (1956) as a muguet soliflore (\"Solinote Muguet\"). Two of the classic materials are now prohibited in EU cosmetics (p-BMHCA, HICC): the accord keeps them to teach the change"
 },
 "family": {
  "value": "floral (the Osmothèque’s \"Solinote Muguet\")",
  "evidence": "perfumery convention",
  "source": "OSMO-1",
  "where": "docs/sources/OSMO-1-osmotheque-collection-2015.md:68",
  "quote": "Diorissimo DIOR 1956 EDT Floral Solinote Muguet Edmond Roudnitska",
  "confidence": "B",
  "note": "the family as the Osmothèque classes a fragrance of this structure"
 },
 "components": [
  {
   "molecule": "hydroxycitronellal",
   "role": {
    "value": "heart",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 40,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for hydroxycitronellal"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "the classic muguet heart",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s convention; no odour description is filed for it"
   }
  },
  {
   "molecule": "p-bmhca",
   "role": {
    "value": "heart",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 20,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for p-bmhca"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "an aroma chemical with a sweet, lily-like odour",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "ENE-1",
    "where": "docs/sources/ENE-1-fan-2024-ene-reductases.md:15",
    "quote": "3-(4-(tert-Butyl)phenyl)-2-methylpropanal, trade name Lilial or Lysmeral, is an aroma chemical with a sweet lily like odor.",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "prohibited in EU cosmetic products since 1 March 2022 (eu-2021-1902)"
   }
  },
  {
   "molecule": "hicc",
   "role": {
    "value": "heart",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 5,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for hicc"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "a muguet aldehyde of the twentieth century",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "prohibited in EU cosmetic products (eu-2017-1410); kept here to teach what was lost"
   }
  },
  {
   "molecule": "phenylethyl-alcohol",
   "role": {
    "value": "heart",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "KLE-1",
    "where": "docs/sources/KLE-1-kleoff-2022-odorants-in-flow.md:27",
    "quote": "Floral notes, such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, or lavender, are typically middle notes defining the “heart” of many perfumes",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "the review names rose among the floral heart notes"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 20,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": null,
    "evidence": null,
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": null,
    "note": "no volatility class on record for phenylethyl-alcohol"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "a soft floral alcohol to round the heart",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s convention"
   }
  },
  {
   "molecule": "linalool",
   "role": {
    "value": "top",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s top / heart / base convention for this material"
   },
   "teaching_parts": {
    "value": 15,
    "unit": "parts",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "teaching proportions, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
   },
   "volatility": {
    "value": "top",
    "evidence": "modeled",
    "source": null,
    "where": "data/1b/volatility.json:38",
    "confidence": "C",
    "note": "the molecule record’s volatility class (modeled: data/1b/volatility.json is a set of site constants, not measurements)"
   },
   "identity": {
    "value": "a fresh floral top",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the trade’s convention"
   }
  }
 ],
 "substitutions": [
  {
   "for": "p-bmhca",
   "molecule": "hydroxycitronellal",
   "value": "After the EU prohibition of p-BMHCA, more of the other muguet materials: here, hydroxycitronellal.",
   "evidence": "perfumery convention",
   "source": null,
   "where": null,
   "confidence": "C",
   "note": "the house’s teaching move; no filed source documents a specific replacement, and hydroxycitronellal is itself restricted by IFRA"
  },
  {
   "for": "hicc",
   "molecule": "hydroxycitronellal",
   "value": "After the EU prohibition of HICC, the same move.",
   "evidence": "perfumery convention",
   "source": null,
   "where": null,
   "confidence": "C",
   "note": "as above"
  }
 ],
 "history": [
  "diorissimo-launch-1956",
  "eu-bmhca-ban-2022",
  "eu-hicc-atranol-ban"
 ],
 "fragrances": [
  "diorissimo"
 ],
 "regulations": [
  "ifra-p-bmhca",
  "ifra-hydroxycitronellal",
  "ifra-hmpcc",
  "eu-2009-1223",
  "eu-2017-1410",
  "eu-2021-1902"
 ],
 "descriptors": [
  "sweet",
  "lily",
  "floral",
  "honey",
  "sharp",
  "medicinal"
 ],
 "media": [],
 "links": {
  "essay": "/science#accord-building",
  "tool": "/atelier#accord-architect"
 },
 "copy": {
  "lede": "A muguet composed from synthetic materials, because lily of the valley gives no oil, and a lesson in what regulation removed.",
  "body": [
   "Two of its classic materials are now prohibited in EU cosmetics. Remove them and see what the heart loses; the substitutions show the usual response."
  ]
 },
 "teaching_variants": [
  {
   "id": "v1",
   "label": "Classic: HICC and p-BMHCA",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "the record as written",
   "as_written": true,
   "why": {
    "value": "The muguet as the record writes it, with the two classic materials that EU law now prohibits in cosmetics, kept to teach the change.",
    "evidence": "perfumery convention",
    "source": null,
    "where": null,
    "confidence": "B",
    "note": "the accord record’s structure field (perfumery convention); the prohibitions are on the Regulation records and in versions 2 and 3"
   },
   "regulations": [],
   "history": [],
   "fragrances": []
  },
  {
   "id": "v2",
   "label": "Without HICC (EU law)",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "regulation on record",
   "why": {
    "value": "EU law (Regulation (EU) 2017/1410) prohibits HICC in cosmetic products placed on the EU market from 23 August 2019. Its parts go to hydroxycitronellal, the record’s own substitution: a house teaching move, and hydroxycitronellal is itself restricted by an IFRA Standard (the industry’s own standard, not law).",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "EU-2017-1410",
    "where": "docs/sources/EU-2017-1410-hicc-atranol-prohibited.md:20",
    "quote": "From 23 August 2019 cosmetic products containing one or more of the substances prohibited by this Regulation shall not be placed on the Union market.",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "the prohibition is documented (its Regulation record); the replacement and the parts are the house’s, modeled. US law: not on record"
   },
   "regulations": [
    "eu-2017-1410",
    "ifra-hmpcc",
    "ifra-hydroxycitronellal"
   ],
   "history": [
    "eu-hicc-atranol-ban"
   ],
   "fragrances": [],
   "components": [
    {
     "molecule": "hydroxycitronellal",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 45,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "p-bmhca",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 20,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "phenylethyl-alcohol",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 20,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "linalool",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 15,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    }
   ]
  },
  {
   "id": "v3",
   "label": "Without HICC or p-BMHCA (EU law)",
   "kind": "teaching variant, modeled",
   "basis": "regulation on record",
   "why": {
    "value": "EU law (Regulation (EU) 2021/1902) prohibits butylphenyl methylpropional (p-BMHCA) in cosmetic products, applying from 1 March 2022. With HICC already gone, both parts go to hydroxycitronellal, the record’s substitution: a house teaching move.",
    "evidence": "documented",
    "source": "EU-2021-1902",
    "where": "docs/sources/EU-2021-1902-cmr-substances-bmhca.md:23",
    "quote": "It shall apply from 1 March 2022.",
    "confidence": "A",
    "note": "the prohibition is documented (its Regulation record, Annex II entry 1666); the replacement and the parts are the house’s, modeled. US law: not on record"
   },
   "regulations": [
    "eu-2021-1902",
    "eu-2017-1410",
    "ifra-p-bmhca",
    "ifra-hydroxycitronellal"
   ],
   "history": [
    "eu-bmhca-ban-2022",
    "eu-hicc-atranol-ban"
   ],
   "fragrances": [],
   "components": [
    {
     "molecule": "hydroxycitronellal",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 65,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "phenylethyl-alcohol",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 20,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    },
    {
     "molecule": "linalool",
     "teaching_parts": {
      "value": 15,
      "unit": "parts",
      "evidence": "modeled",
      "confidence": "C",
      "note": "teaching proportions of a teaching variant, a house interpretation for learning: modeled, not measured, not a formula, not for making"
     }
    }
   ]
  }
 ]
}